Gallipoli - A Southern Italian Port Town

Shores or Gallopoli

On Friday at 12:35 Beth and Rob stepped off the regional train into an empty train terminal. They were not sure what would see or experience as they walked from the dirty platform of the train station which obscured their view of the sea coast and the island on which the old town of Gallopoli rests.

Fortress and harbour

More harbour

Without a map or any directions to guide them, they took a short walk to a busy pedestrian square where Beth spotted the marine blue waters of the Mediterranean down a side road and was drawn toward it.  Within a few minutes they reached the shore and quickly hopped on the shoreline rocks that let them peer into the clear aquamarine water where small schools of silvery fish darted about.  Turning westward, they glimpsed the port marinas and old stone buildings that rose up from the small island that sat at the end of the peninsula they walked along.

Fisherman at shore work

Beth walks Old Town

After crossing the bridge that linked the mainland and the island they stopped to observe the fishing boats and the

 men that were busy working about. Some picked nets clean of catch, some gutted and scaled fish, while others arranged and set the nets into neat piles for the subsequent day's voyage. They enjoyed looking down into the water 

below to see the diversity of sea creatures gathering and feasting on the spoils that were dumped into the waters around the boats.

Baroques Basilica of Gallopoli

Leaving the boats they passed the port's old battle fortress walls that sat to the  right of the bridge and dominated the old town’s entrance. To the left, the fish market was wrapping up and closing for the afternoon's quiet period. Like in Lecce, most shops in the old town closed between the hours of 1 and 4, then reopened for the evening shopping hours. Rob and Beth took this time to become acquainted with the town's inner maze of pedestrian streets then found a small restaurant with a seaside view of the port.

Short Orecchiette pasta

The waiter brought them the freshly-made flavoured breads and served them their Primitiva red wine.  Together 

they shared an appetizer of grilled local vegetables before they were served their entrees. Rob ordered the local short pasta, Orecchiette, with turnip tops and clams, while Beth dined on the macaroni pasta with swordfish.

Afterwards they strolled passed the town’s beach before once again moseying  around different parts of the old town's core looking at the baroque churches and building.

Lecce. Rob’s Morning Coffee Routine

Morning vegetable cart

 On most mornings in Lecce Rob woke earlier than Beth. As he moved about the flat, Beth would call out to remind him to raise the temperature. He would turn up the temperature from the nighttime 12° to a more comfortable 18°C. Soon enough the chill in the flat dissipated and the apartment’s humidity rose as the previous day’s freshly laundered socks and undergarments quickly dried as it lay atop the radiators. After a quick shower and shave, he would prepare a cup of chamomile tea for Beth, who preferred a slower start to the day, and placed it bedside for her before opening the balcony shutters to allow the gentle morning light to enter. Before leaving for the morning walk, Beth would suggest a morning shopping list, “Oranges, tomatoes, wine… Oh and see if you can get that delicious, rustic bread I love so much.”

Morning Fruit

Stepping out on the streets, Rob crossed traffic at pedestrian walkways without a hesitation to his step. He had learned by observing locals that this was the preferred technique to deal with congested traffic crossings. Drivers would have to make a quick decision as to whether they had time to streak quickly through the crosswalk ahead of his path or make an abrupt halt. It was indecision at a crossing that caused drivers to waiver, which often resulted in their return look of derision.  Never did a driver beep at Rob’s carefree decision.

He walked down Viale Guglielmo Marconi past the Christmas market tents made of white canvas until he reached Crem Gelateria / Caffeteria located at the corner of Viale Francesco Lo Re, where he stopped for his morning coffee and his daily Italian lesson.

Walking into the large glass door, the attractive cashier with long, flowing, wavy black hair and green eyes smiled and again wished him “Boungiorno. Eh cappuccino?”

“Si.”

“Eh pasticciotto?”

“Si.”

Rob had grown quite fond of the pasticciotto ever since the first day he visited the café. On that day, the cashier had walked over after seeing him ogle the baked goods display to give him a recommendation. 

“Try dis one. Lecce.  It is special. You must try.”

From the moment he tasted the crisp, crumbly cake filled with a lemon zest and chocolate custard centre he was hooked.

Morning cappuccino with Beth

Master barista and the follow behind
 the counter  worker

After paying the 2.40€ bill, he took the receipt over to the espresso bar and repeated his order. The gentleman, who was nearly as tall as Rob, was the master barista. Though he spoke little English, he smiled and greeted Rob by asking him about his day. Rob answered using one or two known Italian phrases which usually included walking or taking a train. After a fresh shot of espresso was brewed, the barista poured on the steamed milk before creating the day’s image atop Rob’s cappucino. Most days he made a leaf or a swan. Later in the morning when Beth returned with Rob, he would design a heart, an apple, or a pumpkin, in the steamed foam for her.

The Swan

Every morning the owner made a point of coming over to chat with Rob. Though his English was as limited as Rob’s Italian, he’d share a moment to ask Rob about Canada and his plans. Some mornings from behind the counter he’d offer Rob a sample of the kinds of pasticciotto he hadn’t yet tried. After watching Rob finish his treats, he would inquire as to whether he enjoyed them. With Rob’s cappuccino, the owner wished a good bye with a “Ciao”. Rob noted that this was more personal then the formal ‘arrivederci’ he’d received on his first morning in the Café.

Lecce: The Personal Touch

Sitting on the FSE

Taking trains in Italy is more unpredictable than taking trains in Germany.  In Germany, trains run like clockwork.  In addition to schedules being posted on every platforms there is a graphical depiction of each arriving train with every car identified and the precise location on the platform it will stop.  This organization makes it very efficient and, once you are aware of the process, fool proof.

The ride through the Puglia region

In Italy, specifically Lecce, Rob and Beth found the train situation a bit different.  One Thursday morning they set off to take a regional train for a day trip to Otranto.  Admittedly, they arrived at the train station with only a few minutes to spare to catch the 9:43 train.  After unsuccessfully attempting to purchase their tickets at the automated machine, they walked over to the attendant and waited in line with a sinking feeling that they would not make the train.

Train stops are fun, and sometimes
taste good.

At the counter the man looked at them quizzically and informed them that FSE regional train tickets were purchased down the platform in another building.... Alas, it was now 9:50 and they had officially missed their train but they went to the regional train station to explore their options.  

Considering of the length of all posted trips, connections, and return times, they decided to head to Gallipoli for the day instead.  After purchasing the 3€ tickets, the later departure now gave them time to stop at a "Bankomat" and a cafe to request, ‘Due cappuccino porta via’.

One small regional train platform

Back at the train station, the next hurdle was to get to their assigned platform- track 7.  There were signs everywhere indicating to not walk across the tracks but to use the subterranean walkway.  However, other posted signs indicated that the subterranean walkway led only to platforms 1-5.  How were they to get to track 7 they pondered?  Was there a proverbial Harry Potter track 9 ¾?

More Puglia olive groves

Throwing caution to the wind, they walked along a broken up sidewalk that, of course, led them over tracks worried that someone would call out and scold them.  Soon enough a very attractive young, man with wavy, sandy brown hair and hazel eyes wearing a bright orange vest did approach them and, after a brief pleasant conversation supplemented by Italian charades, directed them to platform 7.  Despite the signs to the contrary, the walkway over the tracks was the right path, they just needed to walk a bit further.  They thanked the man, ‘Mille grazie’, who then returned to his work.

A one car regional train

When they arrived at track 7, ten minutes prior to their posted departure time,  a train sat waiting with engines running.  Rob and Beth pondered whether this was their train to Gallipoli.  An inquiry to a gentleman in a railway uniform informed that their train was now coming in on track 6.  As they waited, the very handsome, orange-vested man walked over, obviously recognized that they were strangers to the area and wanted to ensure that they got on the right train explained, mostly through hand signals, that their train was coming on track 7 but it would park behind the present one.  Minutes later their train arrived, as he indicated on track 7 and they were safely on their way.

Who needs posted graphics and punctual trains when you have men with iconic Italian good looks keeping an eye out for you?

Enjoying the view.

Post script:  During this trip and subsequent day trips, Beth and Rob found that the posted regional train schedule often failed to matched the actual.  At times they were required to make non-posted transfers to another train, or conversely, when they were prepared to transfer as indicated on the posted schedule, they were informed that there was no need.  Regardless, there was always an employee on the train who, without prompting, ensured that they arrived at their destination. Usually with an unprompted guarantee, "Watch me. I will tell you where to go."

Lecce: A Sleepy "Town" Transformed

One of many Baroque churches

The Italian town of Lecce in the Puglia region, is located in the "heel" of the Italian boot. Rob had researched the town and discovered that it was generally off the beaten path and perfectly situated for day trips. The weather during the first couple days of their visit felt bitterly cold because of the strong wind blowing in damp air despite the air temperature only being 12°C. Even their stone-structured apartment wouldn't warm up due to its, although beautiful, cathedral ceilings and lack of insulation and weather sealing.

Monestary courtyard

“Please turn the heat down when you are not in the apartment. Heating is very expensive in Italy.”, was Cosima, their Italian host's, only request. Although they were never warm the first few days, they readily honoured her request since the apartment was both spacious and well equipped and Cosima had given them a very competitive rate for their off-season stay.

Western gate into the the old town

Although the days reminded them of those damp, bitter, December spells of their hometown of Windsor, they made the most of their time cooking indoors and catching up on their reading and writing, sometimes in their apartment, sometimes huddled up in an outdoor cafe near a heater. When the wind died down, the city became noticeably warmer, living up to the Mediterranean reputation of having mild winters. During these days they would spend more time walking around and discovering the town.

Empty old town streets

Baroque stone work

The spacious apartment they rented was ideally situated for exploring Lecce. A few blocks in one direction was the ‘Old Town’ with Lecce’s fabulous fortress castle and Baroque style churches, which lends Lecce the name, ’Florence of the South’. A few blocks in the other direction, the extensive outdoor shopping district was found. Additionally, there were markets all around the immediate vicinity allowing them to stock up on fresh, local bread, produce, and cheeses. They especially appreciated the exquisite little sweet shops, delis, and wine boutiques that feature Puglia’s regional Primitivo and Negramaro wines.

During the first few days in Lecce they remarked on several occasions how quiet and deserted the city appeared. As they walked through the old town and the periphery, they were usually alone or accompanied by only few pedestrians. They discussed how good it was to be in a smaller town as it allowed for a more authentic Italian experience. Being out of the tourist route, most locals spoke very little English compared to Italy’s western shores, which allowed them to practise their rudimentary Italian.

Baroque horses, a suitable carving topic and a local cuisine 

On their first evening, they walked around the ‘Old Town’ making note of places they would like to visit over the next ten days. One significant sight, a Roman Amphitheatre, was located beside a cafe that they ended up frequenting during most afternoons. Although they returned the next day to tour the Amphitheatre, they found that it was closed to the public. They watched from above as more than a dozen people worked on the stage - moving in potted plants, bricks, sod, and other staging equipment. When they’d seen their fill, they moved on.

Day two of the nativity construction

Day three

Subsequently, over the next few days they made notes of the progress on the development in the Amphitheatre. Buildings arose, a vegetable garden emerged, a vineyard was planted, sod was laid, and eventually paper mâché characters were added. Below them the ruins of a Roman Amphitheatre had been transformed into a life-size nativity scene complete with a star of Bethlehem made of Christmas lights strung high above their heads.

Day four

Early in their visit they stumbled upon the ‘Fair of Saint Lucia’, which is a celebration of nativity scenes which has been held in Lecce since the early 1500's. Rob and Beth wandered among the dozens of stalls set up in the former convent of Teatini each laden with nativity scenes and accessory pieces such as miniature bowls of fruit or vegetables, rounds of cheese, livestock, people, olive or palm trees, etc… Each artist created their work out of the Lecce traditional art form of paper mâché and terra cotta, while some branched into the modern form of Fimo. As there were virtually no other visitors, Beth and Rob moved about easily among the various stalls and again wondered how all of these artists could be supported.

Nativities of paper mache  
at Teatini convent

On their fourth night, Friday, they decided to explore the shopping district. Although it was late and the shops would be closed, together they thought it would be a good walk to scout out the area for an afternoon shopping trip the next day. As they walked block after block of empty streets, they again pondered how this economy was supported by so little pedestrian traffic. How exactly big was Lecce as it appeared that the shopping district stretched on and on?

Shortly after they returned to their apartment, Rob called out to Beth from the kitchen while on his laptop, "So, how many people do you think live here?"

"Uh, fifty thousand?"

"Try three million!", replied Rob.

Exhibition day of the Nativity

Same street different
atmosphere

Saturday morning they one again stopped at the Amphitheatre to see if there were any further developments to the nativity scene. To their surprise hundreds and hundreds of people were milling about the square. There were Italian-speaking guided tour groups viewing the nativities, individuals taking photos, shoppers buying the day's fresh baked delicacies, crowds gathered around street buskers. They could see that the crowds continued down the streets the Old Town as well. Rob and Beth were stunned. They felt as if they were reliving a scene from the film ‘the Truman Show’. Having discovered the population of the area, the directors needed to call on cast of characters to fill the town's roles.

Busy St. Oronzo's square celebrations

As was their plan, they returned to the shopping district and found the same situation – pedestrians crowded the streets everywhere. The Christmas season has officially begun. Overnight Lecce was transformed into the thriving urban centre of Puglia.

Leaving Greece: A twelve step program.

" I am not an Athenian or a Greek, but a citizen of the world. "         Socrates

Step 1 –9:00 PREPARATION

Beth naps in the Athens apartment

Rob began the day by making a breakfast to use up most of the leftover food while Beth straightened up the apartment and packed their travel bag of snacks. After breakfast they finished packing their suitcases. As always they were amazed at how much ‘stuff’ can explode out of and be squeezed back into luggage.  After an apartment check they left the keys on 

Rob looks one last time out at Athens

the table and took their leave with their heavy bags.

https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/40149

Step 2– 11:00 WALKING TO THE METRO

They rolled their bags through the cobblestone streets for the ten minutes hike to the Syntagma Square metro stop then took an elevator down two floors to the ticket machine where they paid the 2.40€ for two tickets. Down an additional elevator flight to the metro platform they heaved their heavy bags over the gap into a roomy metro coach and stood for the four stops.

Step 3 – 11:30 TRAIN #1

They each carried their heavy bags up the 30 stairs to reach the street level just outside the Larissa train station wondering why there was neither an escalator nor an elevator present.  As this metro stop was connected to the train station where the likelihood of people carrying baggage was greatest, it seemed especially odd that stairs were the only option. 

Rob, with train tickets in hand and limited Greek, questioned the ticket agent, who had limited English, about how to navigate to Patra, the ferry port city. "Two stops.  Transfer at Ska." were the instructions which provided a quandary since Rob and Beth had been handed three different types of tickets.  Neither could see no ‘Ska’ on the posted train schedule so they continued to question three different pedestrians to verify the proper train route before both Canucks boarded the train that was the most consistently indicated. Once on the train Rob again asked a rider that spoke no English to verify that he was indeed on the correct train. He gestured with hand raise showing two fingers, which Rob interpreted to mean, "Two Stops".

Step 4 – 12:30 TRANSFERRING TO TRAIN #2

As instructed, they get off two stops later at Acharnai Station perplexed as to why everyone understood it to be "Ska" and still wondered about the additional ticket they each were given.  With bags in tow they followed the crowd and walked about 400 metres to a new train line platform with signs identifying it as Acharnai Station- Σιδηροδρομικό Κέντρο Αχαρνών (Σ.K.A.).  One mystery solved.

Train ride view outside of Athens

On the platform, Rob questioned a man wearing a suit in order to confirm that their train was due to arrive in one hour.  He informed Rob that their train (arriving in ten minutes!) would take riders to Kiato where they needed to transfer to a bus - thus the necessity for the third ticket.  Second mystery solved.

During the forty minute train ride, Beth napped while Rob snapped photos and was attentive to each train stop. At the end of the line, they once again heaved their heavy bags down from the platform through the station corridors.

Step 5 – 13:30 THE TRAIN-TO-BUS TRANSFER

At Kiato a bus was waiting for the train and they were able to load their bags into the cargo compartment immediately after arriving. Beth ran to use the station's WC while Rob watched the cargo for potential thieves lingering in the station. He witnessed thieves stealing bags from an unguarded cargo bay once in Spain and has ever since been on his guard.

As they settled into their seats on the bus, they marvelled at how smoothly the trip had been going.  Although they were still early in their journey, for each of the transfers thus far they needed to only wait a few minutes until the next stage began.  As they discussed their luck, Beth had a sinking feeling that they were somehow jinxing the next part of their journey...

Step 6 – 13:35 BUS RIDE #1

For an hour and a half the bus drove along 70 km of winding, cliffside highways. Throughout most of the trip Beth was anxious at the speed they were travelling especially around the curves and, as she gulped down the remaining half ounce of Ouzo straight from the bottle in order to calm her nerves, she begrudged Rob for drinking the rest the night before. While Beth was grasping a railing with white knuckles, Rob, peeled down to a white undershirt, bitched about his discomfort and the cramped seats, while all the other passengers suffered slightly in their parkas from the hot rising temperature inside the bus. 

One of many bus ride views

Although the highway only consisted of two lanes, Rob and Beth watched in nervous fascination how the traffic at times formed into three and one half lanes.  It wasn't uncommon for a slow moving transport truck driving half on the paved shoulder to be passed by their speeding bus while also being passed by a third vehicle moving outside of the bus, all the while as oncoming vehicles approached.  The fact that there was a double line between lanes and they were heading toward a curve didn’t intimidate any of the drivers.

The repeated sound of the hysterical baby laugh ring tone of the bus driver's cell only added to the tension as he carried on animated conversations with people on the phone whilst navigating the winding roads.

Step 7 – 15:30 BUS RIDE #2

Bridge near Patra

Both rejoiced that they arrival at Patra unharmed.  After relieving their bladders at the bus station's WC and marvelling at the mountain landscape backdrop of Patra, they sought out 

the city bus stop.  They were not sure why the first bus couldn't have taken passengers all the way to the new port, but so be it.  As they waited for bus "18" to arrive, numerous other busses passed. Rob and Beth wondered whether their luck had indeed run out and worried 

a bit that they were cutting their time close. The ferry websites encouraged passengers to arrive two hours before departure and there was no way they were going to make that guideline.  They reassured each other that although they didn't yet have their tickets it was low season and, from what they understood, ferries were often late.  

Finally their bus arrived and once again they were on their way.

Step 8- 18:30 THE FERRY

Port at Patra

After purchasing two tickets for a private compartment aboard the ferry to Brindisi, Italy, Beth and Rob were informed that the ferry would be arriving two or three hours late.  They were actually quite relieved to hear the news as the ferry was originally scheduled to arrive at 6 am the next day. Any delay would be appreciated as that would buy them time in the morning! When the ferry arrived, Beth and Rob walked across the expansive tarmac to board the vessel with heavy luggage.  Although the ferry could accommodate hundreds of passengers, there were no 

A gift of Santorini, enjoyed

 while leaving Greece

more than twenty-five on board, with a few more to be picked up en route later. After scouting out the ship they relaxed on their bunks with a bottle of wine and watched three episodes of 'Big Bang Theory’ before crashing for the night.

Step 9- 9:30  (The next day)  THE CAB RIDE

After a rough and rocky night’s sleep, Beth and Rob ate the food they packed for breakfast, took a luxurious, long hot shower then disembarked.  After walking 500m to the ferry terminal they discovered that the only way to get to the town of Brindisi was by taxi. They accepted the 20€ taxi ride from a friendly, older Italian gent who drove them directly to the train station and bade them a happy stay in Italy.

Lecce countyside view from train.

Step 10 -10:50 TRAIN #3

Rob and Beth carried their bags onto platform 3 where they boarded a train headed to the town of Lecce - their final destination. Beth, as is not atypical, napped on the 30 min trip while Rob watched for the correct stop.

Step 11 – 11:30 FINDING THE PENSION

Lecce: Florence of the South 

After reaching the town of Lecce, they off loaded their bags for the last time. It is here that Rob realized that he had not download the directions to their pension. Over the course of a 1 km hike through town, with bags in tow, they searched for WIFI. When they finally found a source, Rob downloaded the directions and contact details and they headed for their pension, which was thankfully close by.

Our latest residence.

Step 12  – 12:30 ACCESSING THE PENSION

After another five minutes of walking, they arrived at the locked doors of their pension.  Beth waited with the luggage while Rob walked across the lane to an open discount shoe retail store to locate a telephone and asked the Chinese clerk, in his best Italian, "Posso usare il suo telefono?"  At which point he passed the clerk the phone number displayed on his computer screen and gestured in the international language of charades that he wished for the clerk to dial the number. After a difficult conversation spoken between the Canadian, who lacked conversational Italian, and the host, Cosmia, who lacked conversational English, a final successful exchange occurred resulting in Cosmia arriving from a mysterious location to grant them access to their apartment complex.

https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/510727

Twenty-six hours after they left Greece, three trains, two busses, one cab ride, and many steps later they finally arrived at their destination.  Beth mused silently that they could have travelled from Canada to Australia in the same amount of time.  However, they both agreed that part of the joy of touring is the adventures in travelling.

Quiz 1 Cyrillic

The following are some of the letters of Cyrillic writings that have been learned along the way by Rob and Beth while deciphering directions on trains and streets in Greece. Can you match them on your own without the use of the internet? Mathematicians and Science teachers could have an edge.

Cyrillic alphabet            English spoken

θ                                          ‘R’ sound

π                                          ‘S’ sound

Σ                                          ‘th’ sound

ρ                                          ‘V’ sound

β                                          ‘L’ sound

λ                                          ‘P’ sound

Santorini: Part IV - Snapshots from a Greek Isle

Beth waits at old port with
Mr. Moustache

It took twenty minutes for Rob and Beth to descend the 588 steps, down the 260 meter drop of the Caldera, to Fira’s old port.  At the dock one lone ferry awaited the six tourists to take them on a voyage to Nea Kameni, Santorini’s active volcano.  The impending storm did not deter Rob and Beth, two friends from Japan that now living apart, and one young gay couple from Washington state from boarding the open-sided vessel.

Rob thinking that he would have
been teaching that day.

It took about thirty minutes to reach the island that was formed from 450 years of lava flows of eruptions, the last one taking place in 1950.  Perhaps because it was the low season, English information brochures were nowhere to be found.  It took the style and finesse of Rob rummaging through a sole forgotten garbage container located along the path of the barren volcanic slopes to find two discarded brochures that highlighted features of Nea Kameni. One he kept and one he offered to the others who happily accepted the discarded and stained pamphlet gift.

A ferry ride

Overlooking a volcano cone

Together the six travellers shared the beautiful, barren vistas the island offered.  They ended their tour with a swim in the warm sea fed with hot spring water pouring out of the island just as the storm clouds rolled in and the thunder began.

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The weather on Santorini was the warmest that Rob and Beth had encountered since they began their adventures.  The heat of the sun was hot enough for a tank top or swimming (for Rob).  However, when the sun went behind a cloud or the wind picked up, layers were required.  And, from their limited experience, the wind always blew on Santorini.  Some days it was only 10-20 km/hr but more commonly it was gusting into the forties.

A growing storm.

By the time they scrambled off the ferry from the volcanic island that day, the winds had picked up and the rains started and they felt the fury of a December wind storm on Santorini. For twenty-four hours the wind blew hard, at times reaching class 7 winds accompanied by rain and, more unusually, hail.  

Despite the weather, Rob and Beth felt very sheltered inside the apartment as it was built according to the traditional Santorini design, it was extremely stable in the wind.  The roof was rounded and included no tiles or shingles. and the entire building structure was constructed of concrete and rock.  Because of its stability in storms researchers are studying the design of Santorini's buildings to test how they hold up in a hurricane and earthquakes.  Although they are finding positive results they may not be practical as they are quite expensive to build.

Despite the shelter of the building, they were both relieved the next morning when the sun peaked from behind the clouds.  Alas, the wind had died down as well.

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"Is it wrong to watch an episode of Breaking Bad while soaking in a hot tub on a Greek Isle?", Beth asked Rob one evening.

Rob's only response was to grab his swim trunks and his laptop already loaded with the next two episodes and head out the door.

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Photography by Aloe!

On the last evening in Santorini Christopher and Emma invited Beth and Rob along with Petros and Maria over for tea after dinner.  As they chatted about teaching and the impending holidays, they enjoyed caramel vanilla tea, hazel nuts, walnuts, and a delicious cake.   As the evening drew to a close, Aloe, Christopher and Emma's five-year-old daughter, played photographer and took some shots by which to remember the evening.

It was with heavy hearts that Rob and Beth bid farewell to their Santorini friends.

"Please come visit us in Windsor.  We will be happy to host you and show you around."  

"Yes, let's stay in touch.  Until we meet again."