Search This Blog

Followers

Pages

Thursday, 28 February 2013

Madrid - Diurnal living.

Sunday Fleamarket.
 'Beth, where are you?'
City Lights

Although they favoured the smaller town atmosphere over the large urban setting, Beth and Rob broke this pattern when they left Barcelona, a city of five million, then headed to Spain’s largest metropolis, Madrid. When they inquired, their Barcelona host Kaori summed up the differences between the two cities. "Barcelona is all about the architecture and being outside. Madrid...That city is about the museums and the night life."

The Bullfighter's Hotel
They arrived on a Saturday afternoon and after settling in they headed out on a walk to become acquainted with their new neighbourhood. By the time they finished their very late lunch (three delicious courses & a drink - 10 Euros) they emerged from the restaurant to find the streets transformed. The narrow cobble streets and sidewalks were filled with people of all walks and ages. As they ambled around, they were astonished at the number of people. People were filing into the various cabaret shows, enjoying drinks at outdoor cafes, dining on tapas at the many restaurants and bars, or enjoying the evening stroll on the pedestrian only streets. They hadn't seen so many people since they left Rome.

Protesters or Hooligans?
 I'll Tapas That!
Over the week of their stay, Rob and Beth followed the local schedule. After a morning of exploring the city, they ate a lunch late, then  they followed that with a siesta. Although they never ‘painted the town’ each night, they did go out a most evenings; sometimes just for a stroll but sometimes for tapas or a glass of wine. Despite the crowds never became as thick as they were on that Saturday night, the sidewalks were always the busiest in the evening.

Wednesday, 27 February 2013

More Barcelona

What the hell?
On two successive afternoons, Rob led Beth through pedestrian shopping districts in search of Spanish-made shoes that were both to Beth’s liking and a bargain. By Rob’s account, he figured that they had checked close to fifty different shoe stores in Barcelona’s core. Each one they entered he began the process by trying to be the good 'girlfriend’ by aiding in the shoe selection. Giving his full effort, he attempted to find styles that appealed to her particular taste.  When this operation proved unsuccessful, he occupied his time trying on men’s shoes he liked or, in the case of stores with only women’s shoes, take photographs of the more unusual styles.
We passed through the seven levels
of the Candy Cane forest, through
the sea of swirly twirly gum drops,
and then we walked through
the Lincoln Tunnel.

Entering into one store after another Beth found many appropriate styles, but unfortunately few were left in her size.  At this time of the year almost every shoe store exhibited a “2° Rebjais” sign indicated a secondary markdown and, although many shoes were left in the smaller sizes, few were left in size 41. In an act of desperation, after finding a pair of short black lace-up boots which she had been searching for for years, Beth tried squeezing her feet and orthotics into a size 40.  Although successful in the exercise of placing the shoes on her feet, she was in obvious discomfort when she attempted to walk about the store. Sadly she removed the shoes but made note of the style and brand and was determined to conduct an extensive internet search which Rob jokingly compared to "chasing unicorns".  However she was convinced of her ultimate success.


*            *             *             *             *             *           
Gaudi courtyard above.
Gaudi courtyard below
Guell Park, an architectural design of Antoine Gaudi, is free to the public and one of the best sights in Barcelona. The large main pedestrian area of the park is surrounded by one 250+ meter long, wavy, mosaic bench surrounding an open courtyard which is often populated by entertainers. Tourists are always found in this popular park enjoying the sun or the scenic view of Barcelona’s coast.  Off to one side of the courtyard is an elevated patio terrace usually populated with young couples having drinks while people watching. Underneath the expansive courtyard, thick columns support the massive tonnage of rock and pedestrians above. 

Bubble fun.
Ahhhhh! Period 1
While the sun was moving across the late afternoon sky, Rob with book in hand and Beth with her iPad, sat soaking up vitamin D and reading in the warm, sunny afternoon. Every once in a while Rob glanced at his watch to determine which period of the school day his colleagues were teaching in Canada.

“Oh… They are on the second half of period 1.”

*            *             *             *             *             *           

A Miro Parc sculpture
Most days in mid afternoon Beth and Rob would take turns seeking out the restaurant outing of the day. Beth usually chose a vegetarian restaurant that she had looked up online. These places tended to offer more ethnically diverse menus and were usually quite delicious.  When Rob chose he usually sought out a place that offered a typical Spanish menu plan.  The plans, usual very filling, came in three courses:  primo plate, a main plate, and a dessert. The menus often included choice of beer or wine, and ran at a price of around 10€.

After attending the Picasso museum, Rob decided to stop at an Irish restaurant that also included the menu plan, which was his preference.   After placing their orders, they sat and discussed their thoughts on the latest episode of  “The Walking Dead”.  During the previous couple weeks they had been immersed into the AMC series, which they watched each evening before they slept.  After the arrival of the first course they discussed topics which included, 'Who do you think will be killed off next?’ and 'How could we survive during a zombie apocalypse?’ 

Beth was bitten.
When the entrees arrived Rob eagerly gobbled down his half roasted chicken dinner with roasted potatoes, and then eyed Beth's plate which was hardly touched.

“Is your dinner alright?” asked Rob. “ You’re eating awfully slow.  Are you still sick?”

“No, I’m not enjoying this fish.”

Looking down at the plate Rob stared at a whole fish that was resting at the side of her plate. The grey-skinned fish, with an open gaping mouth and large, cloudy, bulging eyes stared back at him.

“It looks like it’s a zombie fish."

“ I KNOW!!”

*            *            *            *            *            *            *            *            *

Dancing ladies.!???.... Whaaat the..?
“Why are people wearing costumes?” Beth asked the waitress who sported a pirate costume.

“It’s Carnivale.” the waitress replied.

When she returned to the apartment Beth looked up places to go during Carnivale in Barcelona.  She went to the ‘Couch Surfing Social Network’ chat room and discovered that on that evening the gay community was having a celibately parade that was highly attended in the nearby town of Sitges.
Dancing ladies, I think.

Later that evening on a clear 5°C night, both Canadians stood bundled up warmly on a street corner and watched as scantily dressed dancing troupes preceded decorative floats playing music that carried dancers while all around confetti and pot smoke floated through the air.   Around them stood multitudes of costumed spectators watching and joining in the celebrations.

*            *            *            *            *            *            *            *            *

Unicorn captured.
After failing at locating the black laced up boots online, Beth directed Rob to return her to Roy Alty shoe store before leaving Barcelona to try on the size 40 boots again. One again she squeezed her foot in with orthotics and once again they were uncomfortable. 

Sadly, she asked the shoe clerk if there was a size 41 to be found in town.

“No, but try taking the shoe’s insert out and use just your orthotic,” suggested the clerk.

 As she pulled on the boots and walked around the store, Beth called out to Rob, "Looks like I just found my unicorn."


Saturday, 23 February 2013

Barcelona- Snippets

A cat lover in Barcelona
“I'm glad you want to go to Barcelona again, Rob.  I love Gaudi's architecture...  Maybe we can visit the inside of his church. - Sacrada Familia.  And, I'd like to shop for shoes.  I love Spanish shoes." Beth thought of the Spanish-made shoes that she bought in 2007 when she last visited.  Although the February sales were getting pretty thin, hopefully she would still find something in her size.  

Gaudi's 'Hansel and Gretel House'
in Gruel Parc
“I guess we can cough up the 12€ ticket price for Gaudi's church. It just seems like a lot of money for visiting a church.  We’ve seen so many great cathedrals for free.  I think if the price is around the same we’ll go in.” Rob, who tended to be miserly when sightseeing, thought that he might have to pay the price this time. He quickly calculated how the 24€ for two admittance fees for a 15 minute church tour would cut into their budget of 50€/day (excluding accommodations). He imagined all the of the cheap beer and wine accompanied by an excellent Spanish meal that could be had for the same price.  He mentally set an acceptable limit at fourteen for admission to The Sacrada Familia.  

*             *            *            *            *              *             *            *            *            * 

“Please don’t shake the bed!” Beth admonished Rob as she lay in bed with nausea and an upset stomach.  “I’m not feeling well. Could you get me a Tylenol in the black bag?”

As lay in bed she watched as a freshly showered and dressed Rob backed away and begin to rummage through bags for the dwindling supply of pain medication that they brought from Windsor.  Rob who refused the unwashed market fruit the day before due to its (as he described) fishy odour pondered if food poisoning was to blame.

Rob's morning walk at the harbour without Beth.
“What can I make you for breakfast?” Rob asked, in part to provide proper comforting care, and in part to explore his food poisoning hypothesis. 

“Nothing!  Thank you!  Please don't cook in the apartment. Go out for breakfast this morning.” 

Hmmm.

*             *            *            *            *              *             *            *            *            *   
Future F.C. Barcelona player trains
with pigeon football.
On a Monday they began the day stoping at the Market café for a morning coffee. Now that she has become comfortable with the espresso macchiato (Italian version) / café noisette (French version), Beth wanted to order the equivalent version in Spanish.  Unprepared she turned and asked Rob how to order it.  

Una cortello” Rob proudly asked the waitress, believing that that was the drink he learned on the morning of Beth's illness. The server responded with a puzzled, blank stare. 

“Una Cordello?” Rob repeated less confidently.

The server's brow began to furrow.

“Una coredillia? Cordoba?” … “cor..corrr…”

The server grew noticeably impatient.

“Cor....”. 

Laundry five stories up-
a morning routine
“Espresso with a tiny bit of milk?” Beth cut in with a hand gesture indicating a small pinch when she described the milk. 

“OHH, Cordato. Una Cordato. Si.” replied the now obviously relieved server.  Then, turning to Rob, she asked him his beverage of choice. Rob meekly ordered the same. 

To everyone’s relief on subsequent mornings the server, now recognizing the two tall tourists greeted their arrival with “Hola. Dos Cordato?”  

*             *            *            *            *              *             *            *            *            * 

La Rambla
La Rambla, Barcelona’s popular street to which tourists gravitate, is usually alive with activity.  A myriad of vendors entice diverse crowds with a variety of trinkets, T-shirts, caged birds, waffles, flowers and seeds, or cafe seating offering inexpensive, low quality, Spanish paella.  

Busking for Change
Artists exhibit their drawing skills and offer to create portraits for pedestrians.  For the going rate of 45€, tourists sit and pay for caricatures of themselves.  Further south is the busker section where tourists watch as copper-coated cowboys, gold-plated Egyptian mummies, silver-covered dragons, and white-washed, historian figures stand motionless until a passing tourist drops a coin into the can that lays at their feet at which point they spring to life, animated and entertaining, to provide a photographic opportunity for the donor.

*             *            *            *            *              *             *            *            *            * 

Sagrada Familia
In order to make the most of the warm, sunny, Barcelona whether, Rob and Beth walked the three km to Sagrada Familia, the famous church designed by Antoine Gaudi.  Along the main thoroughfares they marched along, stopping in most of the shoe stores that displayed the ‘Rebajas’ banner in the window.  Although they looked at many styles, this was only a sample of what was to come on the subsequent days. 

The second course plate of
a 9.50€ set price meal.
When they arrived at the Sagrada Familia church they gazed up at the four gargantuan spires and acknowledged that the cathedral was still under construction as it has been since 1883 when the building first began. In front of the church stood the long line of ticket holders waiting for the appointed time. Together Rob and Beth located the pricing placard and dejectedly read various prices displayed:

Adults 20.50€
Seniors and Children 16 €
Audio Guide 6€ 
  
“You wanna go to get something for lunch?  I’m kind of hungry.” 

“Sounds good”  
One of many pleasant Barcelona streets.


Thursday, 21 February 2013

Avignon - The Joy of Shopping


Last meal in Provence
Rob Rhone
While travelling along the Mediterranean, Beth and Rob noticed that even when people are bustling about, either walking, driving, or browsing at shops, there is often a relaxation and patience that is sometimes missing among North Americans. Cars that traverse through very narrow streets out of necessity often need to stop while people load or unload other cars, while pedestrians walk across or move objects from one side of the road to another; people seem to wait patiently for others to finish before they continue on with their journey.

Castles in Villeneuve-Les-Avignon
When in Cefalu, while on one of their walks they noticed a rather long line up of cars. A man who walked slowly with a cane was the cause as he moved very slowly on the road around a parked car and onto the sidewalk. Although it was likely that only the people in the first two vehicles could see the reason for the delay, no one honked or looked perturbed but rather seemed to accept the interruption of their journey as an inevitable part of life.

Avignon's Place de l'Horloge
Rob and Beth observed this relaxed pace when shopping as well. Whenever a customer was being helped by a clerk, they seemed to have their complete attention until the interaction was complete. It was hard to get used to at first - either when waiting for assistance or when being helped. It was hard to fight the feeling of were being ignored when someone else was being helped and, when they were the ones getting the attention, it was also difficult as they felt guilty that others were being ignored.

Delightful lunch
On their last morning in Avignon, they stopped at the market to pick up some snacks for the train. Their first stop was the bakery for bread. They had come there every day of their stay and loved the soft grainy loaf with hard chewy crust. They requested a half loaf, which was weighed to determine the price, and paid the 1.80€. As they were finishing the transaction, they casually picked up a jar of honey on the counter to look at. The baker became very engaged and explained that he had the best honey made from the nectar of hazelnut trees which gave the honey a unique nutty flavour. As they conversed two additional customers arrived and waited patiently while the man sliced some bread, slathered a generous dollop of honey, and gave Rob and Beth each a piece to try. He continued to engage them in conversation wanting to know what they thought of the honey. Rob and Beth tried to relax in the conversation but the North American part of them was feeling awkward thinking that they were taking up time as the others were waiting. They chatted for a while with the baker and then bid him adieu. As they walked away, they heard him cheerfully greeting the next in line and once again engage with the next customer.
Villeneuve-Les-Avignon

Rob and Beth talked about how it felt when a merchant gave their complete attention and truly engaged in conversation rather than interrupting to answer a phone call, or by just providing a minimal amount of service to close a transaction. They came to appreciate that in some areas, the act of shopping is something to be enjoyed and savored as much as the goods purchased.


Tuesday, 19 February 2013

Arles: Southern France Then and Now

Starry Night Over the Rhone.
Beth and Rob caught a regional train on a cold windy morning to Arles, the town that inspired Vincent Van Gogh to portray the quiet countryside life of the French.  Stepping on the platform in Arles train station they felt the first cutting cold wind of winter weather since leaving Austria in November.

“It’s enough to make you want to cut your ear off.” Rob jested.

Cafe Terrace at Night 
After walking past the ancient Roman arena now used for summer bullfighting, they found a main artery leading to the Arles Tourist Information Centre. Once there they obtained a map with directions to scenes from Van Gogh paintings.

“Which one will we go to first? Café Van Gogh?” asked Rob.

“Yes.  There is a good vegetarian restaurant close to there.” Beth replied with an enthusiastic tone.

The Trinquetaille Bridge
Within a few minutes of mazing their way through Arles’ tiny streets they entered a tiny square that was home to the infamous café that Van Gogh painted in his work Cafe Terrace at Night (1888’s).  The owners of the cafe have maintained the colour scheme and the style of the tables and chairs of the painting completed more then 130 years earlier.  Because of the lack of patrons Rob surmised that the food at this café, like many tourist traps, was lacking in quality despite the suggestion of the exorbitant prices.

Garten des Hospitals in Arles
After they lunched at the tiny vegetarian café Fadoli Et Fadola, owned by an ex-patriot Canadian, they trudged through the cold, windy afternoon, hiking all of Arles to visit the places that Van Gogh frequented.

Moving along the wind-whipped banks of the Rhone they viewed the bridge that the master painted in The Trinquetaille Bridge, then looked southwest to see the Arles’ profile beside the Rhone that was depicted in Starry Night Over the Rhone. In the north part of town they stopped at a busy crosswalk to see a corner restaurant depicted in La Maison Jaune, Arles.  Though still in operation, it lost the neighbouring building which now remains only as a memory in the painting.
La Maison Jaune, Arles
 
As people who enjoy art, galleries, and exhibitions, both were captivated by the romantic charm of standing in places that inspired one of the most influential painters of all times. Prior to visiting the locations, they imagined the allure each space had.  However, the reality was that the most ordinary looking spaces had given him inspiration which added more mystique to Van Gogh.  Studying each space they were reminded that as time passes, people and places change, sometimes for the better, but always leaving, at least small traces of the past.

Sunday, 17 February 2013

The French and Their Dogs


Beth warming up to dogs.
Hair salon hosts the owner's bulldog
If a venn diagram was drawn few people would fall in the overlapping territory found between the great polarizing sides of society - 'dog’ vs ‘cat’.  The ‘cat’ side, has always been the choice of Beth, as she always finds time in whatever she does to stop and ‘pet the kitty’. On the odd occasion she meets up with a dog she finds modestly appealing. In these cases her usual follow up to Rob is, “She kind of reminds me of a cat.”

Study Partner
Rob's fun fact: Poodles prefer tea
over coffee.
By general observation, it seems that the French fall more on the side of ‘dog’.- especially small dogs like Chihuahuas and Jack Russells.  They love their dogs, at times obsessively.  Frequently Beth and Rob watched as dogs walked through the streets in costumes, bundled in warm sweaters or wrapped in blankets despite  the mildness of the winter, sat inside restaurants, or roamed through stores as their owners shopped.  In one shoe store, Rob watched as the owner’s dog barked at customers as they entered the shop.  Despite the dog being a deterrent for attracting business, the patron customer only smiled and accepted the situation and proceeded to browse, while the owner only encouraged the dog to sit quietly.

As animal lovers, Rob and Beth found the acceptance of dogs refreshing as they generally feel that "Pets are people, too."  What they really wish is a little less dog poop on the sidewalks.  

Saturday, 16 February 2013

Avignon: The Other Place for Popes

Avignon: The other place for popes
Avignon's main
downtown drive
The origin of Avignon’s beautiful medieval centre can be traced to the 14th century when the city became the largest construction zone in Europe when the Vatican chose it as the new home for the centre of Christianity.  For one hundred years Popes lived and developed the area's plumbing, sewers and local industries. The popular wine, Châteauneuf-du-Pape,  along with Provence’s most impressive monument, the ‘Palace of the Pope’,  remain as artifacts of the Vaticans presence in Avignon.  Beth however, as a great admirer of French culture, art, and its regional food was just excited to re-experience the area of France which she’d enjoyed on her last trip to Europe in 2007.
Great stone work.Notice the
pigeon for scale.

“Shall we go to Avignon or Arles?” asked Rob as he busily surfed his favourite website for a place to stay.

“What’s the difference?” Beth inquired.

“Well, Arles is the place where Van Gogh was institutionalized and painted southern France, while Avignon appears to be a larger, more beautiful place to stay.” he parroted from his web readings.

“You pick.”

Beth peers up the Rhone
Through sheer conjecture, Rob chose Avignon and hoped that Beth would be content with his decision.  This decision came into question when they entered a disheveled, dog feces-infested street where they witnessed a drug dealer conclude a transaction just as they pulled their bags into the stairwell of their pension.
Beth at the Papal Palace

“I’m not loving Avignon, yet.” was Beth's only comment as she began the ritualistic unpacking of the bags.

Dessert
That evening they walked the marble pedestrian streets of Avignon’s core where they looked into the windows of boutiques that sold sachets of lavender, regional herbs, natural beauty products, and French fashion. 

“Look at all the sales Rob.  We have to shop soon before the sales are over. Tomorrow we can shop and explore Avignon.  On Wednesday lets visit Arles.”  she planned. Rob feeling more relieved and could tell that she was feeling comfortable with Avignon despite the first impression. 

The neighbouring town
Villeneuve-les-Avignon
On Tuesday, they started their late morning with a walk to Les Halles, Avignon's farmers market.  Inside the market they were overjoyed with the assortment of neatly organized stalls.  Spice vendors, fromageries, butchers, and bakeries all teased them with their tantalizing displays.  They purchased quality produce, cheeses, and bread for their next couple meals at a very reasonable price.

View of Pont Avignon on the Rhone
Afterwards, they balanced their day with a scenic walk around the gardens of the ‘Palace of the Popes’ and looked upon the Rhone river with the view of the Avignon Bridge. Looking out, they watched as the Rhone quickly flowed southward to the Mediterranean sea as Rob whistled the nursery rhyme ‘Bridge of Avignon’ that he learned from his elementary school days.  Beth, unfamiliar with the song or melody, gazed at the beautiful countryside and wondered about the history of the bridge as it only went halfway across the Rhone.

Beth shops for shoes.
In the late afternoon, they shopped for shoes and French fashion at stores that appealed to them. Rob, who had been miserly throughout their stay in Italy, purchased new shoes and a shirt form Lacoste while Beth, who had trouble finding appealing sale items in Cannes, eventually found the shoes that she’d been looking for and a pair of shorts suitable for winter. 


Sun setting on Avignon