Although
our original plans of travel did not include Iceland, it was fortuitous that
Icelandair offered the most affordable ticket across the pond to Europe. So
like the Vikings that traversed the Atlantic to Canada, we chose the same route
a millennium later leaving from Toronto to Iceland’s capital Reykjavik
(pronounced Ray-kya-vic). It is a very clever marketing strategy of Icelandair
to offer up to a one week layover at no additional charge to encourage tourists
to experience what this little island, formed by geologic events along the
mid-Atlantic rift, has to offer. Considering its unique climate and the fact
that it is situated amidst plates of the Earth’s crust that are drifting apart,
Iceland offers a variety of outdoor activities and sites for the geology
enthusiast.
The Hallgrimskirkja |
Day one in Iceland began with a 6:30 AM arrival into Kelavik
International Airport, followed by a forty-five minute shuttle bus to
Reykjavik. Our hostess, of French
origin, informed us that our room would not be ready until 11 am. However, she
graciously fed her tired and disheveled guests, with no additional charge, a
breakfast that included Icelandic greenhouse grown vegetables, cheeses, meats,
hard boiled eggs, and local breads with preserves.
Madame subsequently sent us out with a guide map in hand, to
experience the unique features of the city. Reykjavik is very much like many
European cities with the usual cafes, bistros, and bakeries. However, the cool
brisk morning streets were calm and with few people milling around the
corrugated metal-sided houses and buildings, with the exception of the ones
that frequented the morning coffee shops. Most businesses opened after eleven,
which may be due to Reykjavik’s active nightlife that begins well after 10 pm
and continues to early morning. Because beer and wine are so expensive in
Iceland, most locals drink at home first before heading out for the
evening. However many
establishments offer “Happy Hour” to try to lure people in. The “Appy Hour” app
on the iPad is very useful for locating the best of these deals!
The Sea Baron |
Some of the most noteworthy places to see in town include
the dominant central church, Hallgrimskirkja, which lacks ornate details seen
in other European Churches, the modern award winning designed Centre of the Arts building or
Harpa, and the old fishing docks with seafood restaurants that serve locally
caught seafood including minke whale. We had our first paid meal in the
founding establishment along the docks called “The Sea Baron”. This locally
popular seafood “shack” lacks the refinement of newer establishments. With its
cluttered seafarer paraphernalia, storage canisters seating, and vintage
sailing and fisherman pictures, the delicious lobster chowder felt all the more
authentically Icelandic.
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