Belfast - "The Troubles"

Revitalized Belfast

Ever since 9/11, when most people hear of terrorist acts, they likely think of the Taliban, the al-Qaeda and other Muslim extremists. However, prior to that date, for those that grew up in the seventies and eighties, terrorism in the news generally meant one thing - Northern Ireland and the conflict between the Republicans and the Unionists. Simply speaking, the Republicans, mostly consisting of Catholics, wanted to separate from Great Britain and the Unionists, consisting mostly of Protestants, wanted to remain.

Republican Memorial

Growing up, Beth remembers seeing the horribly violent images on TV of the bombings, of children needing to be escorted by police to school, and generally clashes between the two opposing forces. In 1998 she was surprised when the Good Friday Agreement was signed putting an end to the "Troubles" and reaching a fragile peace deal.

Prior to their arrival in Belfast Beth had some trepidation about staying in the city. Although there was some residual anxiety, she was looking forward to touring some of the historically violent areas and to learn more about the conflict in the process.

A) Walking Tour

Don't climb here! Ouch!

An ebook travel guide for Northern Ireland came in handy as it included a a self-guided walking tour. On their first day in Belfast Rob and Beth set out to walk through the Protestant district, with the main road of Shankill, and the Catholic district, where Falls Road is the main thoroughfare. Dividing these two districts people can walk along the ‘The Peace Wall’ a massively high wall that not only blocks the view from one side to other but also protects each side from projectiles being loped over it.

Bobby Sands- Republican
hunger striker

Along the Falls Road there is evidence of past violence everywhere. Churches, schools, and generally all public buildings were protected behind tall unwelcoming looking metal fences designed to keep out potentially unfriendly people. On the sides of buildings, large political murals were painted. Although there is still a political nature about the murals, £3 million has been spent in the last few years to change the tone from aggressive to a more positive pride in their communities. The Sinn Fein office located along this road containing a book store with proceeds going to the thousands of families that had loved ones killed during the confrontations.

Rob and Beth stopped at "The Fort" a somewhat dodgy pub just off of Falls Road. As they sipped their pint they engaged in casual conversation with an older man sitting beside them at the bar. He brought up the topic of the death of Margaret Thatcher, and clearly announced to the bar that "She will roast in hell that one. She will roast in hell." Not knowing how to respond to such a strong statement they casually shrugged their shoulders, smiled, and quickly finished their beers before slipping out the doors.

Loyalist areas

Along Shankill Road the images were similar with the protective bars with razor wire on buildings, and political murals although the pedestrian traffic was much heavier. Furthermore, the British allegiance was very evident as the British colours and the Union Jack flew everywhere.

In one instance while waited at a corner for the light to turn, a man with loyalist tattoos covering his calves started up a conversation with Rob and Beth bringing up the death of Margaret Thatcher once again and stated decisively that "She was a good prime Minister, alright. She was a good prime minister. She stood up to the IRA and Sinn Fein." He continued to relay how people had celebrated her death on The Falls Road and in response on Shankill they lit Chinese lanterns as a show of respect and to celebrate her life.

Shankill Loyalist Area

They left the Loyalist area in search of ‘The Peace Wall’ along a desolate street of damaged abandoned buildings showing remnants of the historic past. When they reached the divisional Peace Wall, one of seventeen in Belfast, they stopped to ponder the past events that had unfolded. The first level of the fence was a 20’ high cement wall, later extended another 10 feet with a layer of solid metal, and finally a final 15 feet metal screen. Traffic signs were posted stating that alcohol consumption in the area was banned.

The Peace Wall

Along the lower level of the Peace Wall are murals with themes focusing on peace. As they walked the length of the wall people routinely jumped out of Black Cabs to take their photo along the wall or to sign messages of peace on the murals.

Gaol birds

Before leaving the secular neighbourhoods they visited the Crumlin Gaol for a tour. The guide led them through the surprisingly beautiful 150-year-old building and shared stories about the original inhabitants which included men, women, and children. Additionally he shared stories of the last inhabitants which included political prisoners from both sides of the conflict which were held in the prison in remand. Not surprisingly after numerous fights within the prison and having bombs loped over the walls from the outside, the prison was shut down in 1996.

Banners celebrating Belfast's
ship building heritage

They finished their walk and headed to the revitalized city centre with new trendy pubs and night life spaces where, although tensions boil just beneath the surface in the secular neighbourhoods, people here seemed anxious to put the "Troubles" behind them and focus on other aspects of life.

B) Belfast Film Festival - Good Vibrations

Queen's University Grounds

The Queen’s Theatre, in the Queens University area of Belfast, is identified as a place to visit. The Belfast Film Festival had just opened when Rob and Beth arrived in town and on a Wednesday night three films were showing - one American, one Italian, and one from Belfast, Northern Ireland. Of course, they selected ‘Good Vibrations’, the made-in-Belfast film and settled in the plush, red velvet cushioned seats in the Queen's Theatre.

The movie was a biopic of a local business man, Terri Hooley, during the decades of the Irish conflict and the emergence of Irish punk rock. At a time when businesses were closing down and buildings were bombed out, Terri choose to open a record store in the middle of the conflict zone. The movie was well done, and highlighted a personal account of living through the terror. The film opens with Terri sharing that, ‘I used to have lots of friends before the conflict, but once the fighting began they all identified themselves as either Catholic or Protestant’. As he refused to segregate himself, he lost all of his friends. When he, on a whim, became a manager of two punk groups in Belfast he gave the Irish young people a voice.  He admitted, when confronted by armed policemen along a highway, that he didn't even knew which side of the conflict they fell on.

Beth wearing £3000 worth
of mayoral robes.

After the movie Rob and Beth walked home talking about Ireland's troubled past and wondered about the lasting effect that it had on its inhabitants. In September, there had been a reoccurrence of violence as a police officer was shot, the first since The Good Friday agreement of 1997. In December, a controversial bylaw limiting the flying of the Union Jack at city hall to special occasions resulted in weekly protests and hundreds of new flags being put up around the Protestant area of town. More recently the death of Margaret Thatcher, who drew a hard line against the IRA, inflamed tensions between the two factions. On the whole however, Beth and Rob experienced a city that they felt comfortable and safe within, while meeting friendly people that appreciated their stopping into town.

Northern Ireland- Part 1

Catching the big one!

After boarding the ferry to Belfast Northern Ireland from Stranraer Scotland, Beth and Rob made their way quickly to the ship's onboard restaurant and made their food order with the Irish lass who tended the till.  They then stepped aside to select a wine and a bottle of water before returning to find a younger, slight women and a large, burly, red-haired man awaiting service from the now departed cafeteria girl.

Martin

“Just whon ded y’u sudd’nly get ahead ov me in da bluddy line?” snapped the man in a thick unidentified accent when Rob placed their beverages onto the barren cafeteria tray that lay at the till awaiting the arrival of their food.

Rob stupefied by the curt tone of the red faced man, pondered a response while envisioning the Notre Dame University logo of a green punchy leprechaun with the underlining slogan ‘The Fighting Irish’.

Cliff of Northern Ireland

*Gulp* “We just placed a food order before you arrived. I believe that that is our tray."

“Oh, my apology.  I ‘ad a bloak like dat cut in on me de oth’r doy an gave me attitude."

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The Giant's Causeway

Basalt Columns

In Northern Ireland, it is told that the Irish giant named Finn MacCool had his part in the creation of the geologic wonder made of polygonal-shaped basalt columns collectively known as the ‘Giant's Causeway’.  Finn made the causeway, or stone bridge, to link with Scotland where he challenged the Scottish Giant Benandonner to a battle. Finn, upon seeing the great size of the Scottish giant, was so scared that he ran back across the causeway to Ireland.  When he reached home his wife hid him in bed and wrapped him up like a baby.  The great Benandonner, having followed Finn over the causeway, knocked on Finn's cottage door and was greeted by his wife. She claimed that Finn was out, invited the great giant in for lunch, and showed him her baby wrapped up in bed.  The giant, seeing the grand size of the baby, became frightened at the thought of the overwhelming size the child’s father.  He destroyed the causeway as the scared giant fled home.  As proof of this theory there is a similar rock structure found on the shores of Staffa Scotland.

More Columns

The robin of Europe. The sign of
spring.

The Giant’s Causeway remains a world heritage site and one of the biggest draws to the whole of Ireland. For Beth and Rob, the Giant's Causeway proved an ideal place to hike and marvel at the unusual rock structures of Ireland's northern shores. 

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Titanic Museum

On their first day in Northern Ireland Rob and Beth sat in a pub in the city centre of Belfast getting their
 bearings and chatting with a bartender. When she asked what they were going to be doing over the next couple days they mentioned doing a tour of the Protestant and Catholic areas of town to visit the historical sights of the conflicts. She was a bit dismayed and responded, "Oh don't just focus on the negative... Go see the new Titanic museum."   

Glasgow – Out Hiking.

 Day 1

Moira and Rob on their first hiking
experience in 2004

Training Western Canada 2004

With Moira as guide, the three headed off on consecutive days of hiking in the highlands of Scotland. During the first day’s drive, Rob required frequent reminders from Moira to “Drive on the left, please.” followed by “Oh.  Sorry…” whenever he drifted to “right” side of the highway.  She uttered these reminders while subtly pressing on an imaginary brake pedal on the front passenger’s seat side of the vehicle. The roads to their destination town of Glencoe challenged Rob’s driving attentiveness. At times they formed a bottleneck for several kilometers squeezed between four-foot stonewalls lining the roadside that barely allowed space for two cars passing in opposite directions.

Loch Lomond

After about ten kilometers of this narrow road Moira assured him “Don’t worry.  It’s only like this until Loch Lomond ends.” However, this assurance came when there were still another dozen kilometres yet to come.

Scottish highland landscape

As they ventured farther and farther northwest from Glasgow, the hills grew in size and grandeur, and despite the sun shining for the previous two days, ice and snow still partly covered them. Whenever there was a pullover place Rob stopped the car for photos. Moira and Rob hopped out to capture all they could in pictures while Beth tried to doze in the backseat having been out late whiskey tasting the night before.

Moira and the Three Sisters

“The landscape is not like Canada. We’ve chopped down all the trees now, but I kind of like that you can see everything.” confessed Moira.

“It is a beautiful view.”, agreed Rob.

When they finally reached their destination, they parked the car at a roadside lot by the hills known as the ‘Three Sisters’. After placing their hikers upon their feet, they commenced the trek upward along the trail known as ‘The Hidden Pass’.

Double Trouble

Sunny day on the icy tops

As the three ascended, Moira carefully stepped along the icy parts of the trail and apologized for her trepidation. "Remember I'm not Canadian! I'm not as used to running around on snowy grounds." she laughed nervously as she grabbed Rob's arm for balance.  And, as Beth bounded ahead to test the trail for Moira she good-naturedly called out, “OK.  Now you’re just showing off.”

Day 2

Driving on the road to the Trossachs was little less rigorous for Rob who was feel slightly more confident on the roads, but apparently not any less for Moira who continued to remind Rob to drive on the left, apologizing all the while.

Checking a Trossachs Trail map

“The Trossachs was my dad’s recommendation.  He says that it’s like all parts of Scotland in only one small place.” Moira commented as she guided them to there new hiking location.

Though the trek was less rigorous then the previous day’s trail, it matched it in its picturesque quality. During the first half, the trail climbed up gentle sloping hills that were long ago cleared of forests much like that of the Highland hills, while the second half led them through sparsely wooded areas of gnarly trees and through muddy cattle pastures.

Cattle pastures

As they walked through the 'kissing gates' and followed the clearly laid out path they realized they were entering an area populated with a herd of cows and their calves.

Moira, who was disappointed that they had not yet come across the Highland cow which is unique to Scotland with its long hair and wide-spreading horns, was a bit surprised with Rob and Beth's delight seeing a bunch of "normal cows".

 

"But they're not normal." insisted Beth having no previous cow identification experience "Look at them... They are hairy. I think they are Highland cows."

"That's not hairy! They are NOT Highland cows. I can’t imagine why you are so excited…." queried Moira.

Real Highland Cows

"Well they do have long hair... and we normally are not in the same field as cows... Look at the calves... They are so cute."

Moira rolled her eyes and laughed. "I can't imagine how excited you'll be when you see a real Highland cow." and she headed off leading the way down the trail.

Ranger Fans

"Can we go to the game too?" asked Beth after Moira announced she was going to a football game the next day.

"That'd be great. I wasn't sure if you would be interested..."

They met at Moira's flat and walked the few blocks to the Hampden Park stadium at noon on Sunday. "It's a very exciting game for Glasgow. The Celtic Rangers usually play in the Professional Première League but, because of a financial mismanagement, they have been demoted to tier three. Today they are playing my dad's favourite team- Queen's Park Spiders. He's very excited as they are in second place, and they are all amateurs players."

They bought their last minute £15 tickets and settled in the black and white section full of the Queen's Park's fans.

"Wow. These seats are posh. Cushiony, with arm rests, and right at the midline of the field."

The game was well played by teams from both ends, but Rob and Beth were equally as entertained by the response of the faithful fans in the stands around them, as well as by the fanatical Celtic Ranger fans in stands opposite the stadium. The man that sat beside Moira was as tense as anyone could be.  He showed raw, intense emotion with every goal, and when he felt that the Queen’s Park players messed up, he shouted out advice in a heavy Glasgow accent.

Unfortunately Moira's father's team didn't win the day, but as the three agreed, the Spiders put up the good fight against a team of professionals, even managing to score agains the pros.

Cheers

On the walk back to Moira’s flat, they shared one last meal together at her neighbourhood pub before saying a final good bye, as they were heading to Belfast, Northern Ireland the next morning.

"Thank you for everything!! It was great to see you again and to eat every type of Scottish food with you."

And, Moira agreed that since it has been eight years since she had been to Canada, it was time she return.

Glasgow - And Other Things Scottish

George II Square

Merchant City- Tolbooth Steeple

Rick Steve's book of Great Britain proved handy once again as it included a self-guided tour of Glasgow, the largest city in Scotland. After dining on Scottish oatmeal for breakfast, they left their mansion-sized bed and breakfast with iPad in hand, and walked to Glasgow's old town centre. At first glance, the town wasn't what they considered as overly stately or particularly attractive. The shops looked average and it seemed like quite a few were closed down. They were perplexed at first because their friend Moira, a native Glaswegian, had mentioned that Glasgow was more beautiful than Edinburgh especially when it came to architecture.

Buildings with
External Detail

"Oh. Look up." Beth said. If you ignore the modern storefronts 

that cover the bottom level of the buildings and look up at the original facades, Glasgow's true beauty comes through. Their guidebook helped them to further focus on specific aspects of the architecture.

Glasgow is noted for one architecture in particular - Charles Rennie MacIntosh who was prominent in the early 1900's and is renowned for his Art Nouveau style. As they toured the city centre they visited Macintosh's "Lighthouse building", "Hatrack" building built with engineering similar to Antoni Gaudi's buildings in Barcelona, and his Willow Tea Rooms.

MacIntosh's tea room

When touring the tea rooms Macintosh's attention to detail was apparent. Although primarily an architect, for the teas rooms he designed everything from the stained glass windows, furniture, lighting, carpeting, and even the cutlery. The overall effect is awe-inspiring and made them feel like they were walking into a work of art.

*******

"You HAVEN’T tried sticky pudding?" asked Moira aghast after they finished their meal together. Rob and Beth had met Moira while travelling in western Canada eight years prior and had kept in touch with the help of Facebook. They had been looking forward to meeting with her on Scottish soil. "We'll order that and bread and butter pudding."

Veggie haggis,
neeps, and tadies

That was just the beginning of Rob and Beth's education on Scottish foods. Moira was an enthusiastic tour guide as she 

identified traditional Scottish foods on menus and encouraged them to try them all.

“Oh my dad would laugh when I tell him you had the mince and mash Rob”, Moira remarked on Rob’s menu choice in the roadside pub on their drive back from the day’s hike. “That’s his favourite.”

Over the next few days they ate:

Haggis, neeps, and tadies: ground guts, lungs heart, and other unmentionables, with sides of mashed turnips and mashed potatoes (Beth had the vegetarian version)

Cullen skink: A clowder made with smoked haddock.

Mince and mash: Mildly seasoned ground beef and veggies with mash potatoes on the side

Marmite: Some kind of brown spread with subtle hints of awful.

Crana-gone

Hampton pie: A Scottish ground meat pie.

Fish, chips, and mushy peas: needs no explanation

Curry chips: Curry gravy on Fries

Cranachan: tasty pudding with berries honey and whisky…yesss!

Moira enjoy bread
butter pudding

Clootie dumpling (or cootie dumpling as Rob says): another pudding dessert made with cream, bread crumbs and dried fruit

Sticky toffee pudding: self described

Bread and butter pudding: Old bread with butter made into tasty pudding with custard

Tablet: A highly rich sugar treat much like Canadian maple fudge.

*******

The room

Before reaching their hiking destination, Moira, Rob and Beth stopped in the small town of Stirling to view its castle and have lunch.

"I could use a coffee." said Beth spotting a coffee shop after their very filling Scottish meal which left her somewhat groggy.

Walking by Sterling's Graveyard

"I know just the place and it's near the hiking spot. In fact, it’s a tea house actually owned by my relatives."

They hopped in the car and the three drove, following Moira's

directions for 30 minutes. The cafe was busy and had people browsing the natural foods shop attached to the tearoom. Beth looked out the window beyond the field of grazing sheep wondering how much light would be left by the time they got out for their hike. However, she was the one who requested coffee.

When they were finally settled in a booth and menus in hand Moira asked what everyone was ordering.

Did someone say
more dessert?

"Just a coffee, I think." responded Beth. "We just finished lunch."

As it turned out they all ordered coffee or tea and a dessert. A

 scone with clotted cream and jam each for Moira and Beth, and an apple pastry for Rob. Moira was very disappointed that the meringues were finished for the day.

"They are my favourite." and she went on to explain that meringues were a typical Scottish dessert that were light and fluffy, and particularly large at this cafe. "Although they don't make them as good as my mom's they are a pretty close second."

An hour after arriving at the cafe, they were once again heading for the day’s goal. A hike.

"I cannot believe we stopped to eat again. I'm stuffed!", announced Beth.

"You're the one who wanted a coffee", laughed Moira.

"A coffee... not tea and cake! I was thinking of grabbing a quick espresso to go."

Moria and Beth plan their
next coffee break.

"Oh. When someone says 'going for a coffee' it always means sitting down for tea, dessert and chatting."

"You must have thought I was crazy as we just ate!... And, I thought it was just part of your plot to keep us from hiking"

Glasgow: Whisky Sampling

Royal mile Edinburgh is
a place to sample whishy for free

Having sipped only a handful of varieties in his life and attended only the Hiram Walker’s tour in Windsor, Rob considered that he had only a rudimentary knowledge of whisky.  After arriving in Scotland he felt the necessity to educate himself about this Scottish tradition.  As such he spent evenings reading literature online to find what to buy and where to purchase. This proved to be an overwhelming task considering the number of distilleries in Scotland and the varieties of whiskies each distiller produces.

Bowman's darkest-served
with chocholate

Edinburgh, he read, had many whisky boutiques of which only a few offered free tasting of high quality and rarer whisky, but sold these whiskies at inflated prices for tourists. Shop attendants, however, were only too happy to serve both Beth, who wasn't a fan of whisky, and Rob, who does appreciate the occasional good whisky.  To her surprise Beth enjoyed Scotch whiskies, particularly Islay region whiskies with their characteristic peat-smoked taste, and not so surprising to Rob, she enjoyed the finer, more expensive varieties.

Who has the money?

Following a day of tasting and touring, Rob returned to their flat and seached online for places to purchase the whiskies they liked for a less expensive price in their next destination, Glasgow. 

“There is an evening of tastings in two days at ‘In Good Spirits’, a retail store in Glasgow”, Rob mentioned to Beth. “Would you like to go when we get there? I don’t think this is a tourist tasting.”

Whisky: A Glasgow tradition.  

“Sure.  But I’m not really a whisky drinker.”

Distiller's selection. 

On the evening of the Glasgow tastings, Beth and Rob entered the back utility room of the ‘In Good Spirits’ alcohol retail store. Inside the room were four large tasting tables, each with a labeled place setting that included six filled snifters. The single ounce samples of scotch whisky that filled each glass ranged in colour, some a light golden straw colour, while others a richer amber. Beth, the amateur whisky drinker, was now preparing to complete the difficult task of consuming six shots over the hour and a half of the tasting.

On your mark...get set...

When the whisky representative began to present, both Rob and Beth felt out of their comfort zone as they watched other participants jotting down notes on their whisky place settings, observing the floral and tasting notes of each of the samples.  Everyone present, with the exception of the two Canadians, were Scottish and familiar with the regions and styles of Scotch whisky. The Scots carefully sipped each sample before making notes, while Beth and Rob finished the first of their samples with a gulp before realizing that perhaps they should consider conducting their tastings more like everyone else.  At one point between samples, the presenter ventured over to their table to get Beth’s and Rob’s impressions.  Stumbling over what to respond Beth said, “I taste something phenolic” (a term she learned the day prior while sniffing a sampling kit), while Rob responded with, “Hmmm....I think I taste something…ahh..” at which the presenter moved along to get impressions from other tasters.

The evening's whisky selections.

When the formal tasting was finished, Beth and Rob feeling slightly more relaxed and in a spending mood, selected two bottles of whiskey to bring back to Canada in their already stuffed suitcases.