Belfast - "The Troubles"

Revitalized Belfast

Ever since 9/11, when most people hear of terrorist acts, they likely think of the Taliban, the al-Qaeda and other Muslim extremists. However, prior to that date, for those that grew up in the seventies and eighties, terrorism in the news generally meant one thing - Northern Ireland and the conflict between the Republicans and the Unionists. Simply speaking, the Republicans, mostly consisting of Catholics, wanted to separate from Great Britain and the Unionists, consisting mostly of Protestants, wanted to remain.

Republican Memorial

Growing up, Beth remembers seeing the horribly violent images on TV of the bombings, of children needing to be escorted by police to school, and generally clashes between the two opposing forces. In 1998 she was surprised when the Good Friday Agreement was signed putting an end to the "Troubles" and reaching a fragile peace deal.

Prior to their arrival in Belfast Beth had some trepidation about staying in the city. Although there was some residual anxiety, she was looking forward to touring some of the historically violent areas and to learn more about the conflict in the process.

A) Walking Tour

Don't climb here! Ouch!

An ebook travel guide for Northern Ireland came in handy as it included a a self-guided walking tour. On their first day in Belfast Rob and Beth set out to walk through the Protestant district, with the main road of Shankill, and the Catholic district, where Falls Road is the main thoroughfare. Dividing these two districts people can walk along the ‘The Peace Wall’ a massively high wall that not only blocks the view from one side to other but also protects each side from projectiles being loped over it.

Bobby Sands- Republican
hunger striker

Along the Falls Road there is evidence of past violence everywhere. Churches, schools, and generally all public buildings were protected behind tall unwelcoming looking metal fences designed to keep out potentially unfriendly people. On the sides of buildings, large political murals were painted. Although there is still a political nature about the murals, £3 million has been spent in the last few years to change the tone from aggressive to a more positive pride in their communities. The Sinn Fein office located along this road containing a book store with proceeds going to the thousands of families that had loved ones killed during the confrontations.

Rob and Beth stopped at "The Fort" a somewhat dodgy pub just off of Falls Road. As they sipped their pint they engaged in casual conversation with an older man sitting beside them at the bar. He brought up the topic of the death of Margaret Thatcher, and clearly announced to the bar that "She will roast in hell that one. She will roast in hell." Not knowing how to respond to such a strong statement they casually shrugged their shoulders, smiled, and quickly finished their beers before slipping out the doors.

Loyalist areas

Along Shankill Road the images were similar with the protective bars with razor wire on buildings, and political murals although the pedestrian traffic was much heavier. Furthermore, the British allegiance was very evident as the British colours and the Union Jack flew everywhere.

In one instance while waited at a corner for the light to turn, a man with loyalist tattoos covering his calves started up a conversation with Rob and Beth bringing up the death of Margaret Thatcher once again and stated decisively that "She was a good prime Minister, alright. She was a good prime minister. She stood up to the IRA and Sinn Fein." He continued to relay how people had celebrated her death on The Falls Road and in response on Shankill they lit Chinese lanterns as a show of respect and to celebrate her life.

Shankill Loyalist Area

They left the Loyalist area in search of ‘The Peace Wall’ along a desolate street of damaged abandoned buildings showing remnants of the historic past. When they reached the divisional Peace Wall, one of seventeen in Belfast, they stopped to ponder the past events that had unfolded. The first level of the fence was a 20’ high cement wall, later extended another 10 feet with a layer of solid metal, and finally a final 15 feet metal screen. Traffic signs were posted stating that alcohol consumption in the area was banned.

The Peace Wall

Along the lower level of the Peace Wall are murals with themes focusing on peace. As they walked the length of the wall people routinely jumped out of Black Cabs to take their photo along the wall or to sign messages of peace on the murals.

Gaol birds

Before leaving the secular neighbourhoods they visited the Crumlin Gaol for a tour. The guide led them through the surprisingly beautiful 150-year-old building and shared stories about the original inhabitants which included men, women, and children. Additionally he shared stories of the last inhabitants which included political prisoners from both sides of the conflict which were held in the prison in remand. Not surprisingly after numerous fights within the prison and having bombs loped over the walls from the outside, the prison was shut down in 1996.

Banners celebrating Belfast's
ship building heritage

They finished their walk and headed to the revitalized city centre with new trendy pubs and night life spaces where, although tensions boil just beneath the surface in the secular neighbourhoods, people here seemed anxious to put the "Troubles" behind them and focus on other aspects of life.

B) Belfast Film Festival - Good Vibrations

Queen's University Grounds

The Queen’s Theatre, in the Queens University area of Belfast, is identified as a place to visit. The Belfast Film Festival had just opened when Rob and Beth arrived in town and on a Wednesday night three films were showing - one American, one Italian, and one from Belfast, Northern Ireland. Of course, they selected ‘Good Vibrations’, the made-in-Belfast film and settled in the plush, red velvet cushioned seats in the Queen's Theatre.

The movie was a biopic of a local business man, Terri Hooley, during the decades of the Irish conflict and the emergence of Irish punk rock. At a time when businesses were closing down and buildings were bombed out, Terri choose to open a record store in the middle of the conflict zone. The movie was well done, and highlighted a personal account of living through the terror. The film opens with Terri sharing that, ‘I used to have lots of friends before the conflict, but once the fighting began they all identified themselves as either Catholic or Protestant’. As he refused to segregate himself, he lost all of his friends. When he, on a whim, became a manager of two punk groups in Belfast he gave the Irish young people a voice.  He admitted, when confronted by armed policemen along a highway, that he didn't even knew which side of the conflict they fell on.

Beth wearing £3000 worth
of mayoral robes.

After the movie Rob and Beth walked home talking about Ireland's troubled past and wondered about the lasting effect that it had on its inhabitants. In September, there had been a reoccurrence of violence as a police officer was shot, the first since The Good Friday agreement of 1997. In December, a controversial bylaw limiting the flying of the Union Jack at city hall to special occasions resulted in weekly protests and hundreds of new flags being put up around the Protestant area of town. More recently the death of Margaret Thatcher, who drew a hard line against the IRA, inflamed tensions between the two factions. On the whole however, Beth and Rob experienced a city that they felt comfortable and safe within, while meeting friendly people that appreciated their stopping into town.