Edinburgh- Sometimes Free

Edinburgh cityscape over Waverly train station.

The ‘old town’ of Edinburgh is situated on the slopes of ancient volcanic rock hills that provided ideal protection for the Scots that inhabited the area during their bloodier, wilder times.  On some streets buildings found on the sides of hills had three floors from the front vantage point but seven or more levels when viewed from the backside of the street.  At times when they walked about the town, Beth and Rob stopped along main street bridges to view the many layers of downtown Edinburgh.  Walking through the streets, they studied the fortress-like buildings, marvelled at their gray stone construction, and noticed how some buildings huddled directly beside another, while other buildings had dark, narrow walkways between them called a ‘close’ that allowed for pedestrian traffic.

A visit to the Edinburgh Botanical
Greenhouses

One of many Stag parties that arrives
 in Edinburgh on weekends

When they reached the St. Giles Cathedral courtyard, located on the Royal Edinburgh Mile road, Beth and Rob waited for the start of the free Edinburgh walking tour.  This time arriving ahead of time, they made the mistake and waited in vain at the wrong starting point.  After twenty minutes beyond the expected start time, they came to the realization that they once again missed a tour.

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Scottish National Gallery

Edinburgh's towering rooftops

At the Royal Scottish National Museum, Beth and Rob toured five floors of artifacts that summarized Scots vast history and highlighted their contributions throughout the world. Being very comprehensive, the museum displayed pieces of different Scottish time periods, from prehistoric to present times. Both Beth and Rob were impressed with the quality of this free museum and recognized that they has visited far less impressive galleries and museums at a premium price.  As they are both science geeks, they most enjoyed seeing the stuffed Dolly -the first mammal to be cloned, the vast hands-on exhibits of geological and nature sciences, and, of course, the formula-one race cars of Jackie Stewart.

Dolly's Fate.

Having enjoyed this museum, on the next day, they chose to tour the free Royal Scottish National Gallery throughout the afternoon. Once again they were impressed with wonderful works that the gallery had on collection. They joyously walked among great masterpieces by Rubens, Rembrandt, Vermeer, a host of impressionist paintings, and an enjoyable brightly painted of great Scottish artists that neither had seen previously collectively known as the ‘Colourists’.  All of the gallery’s vast wall space was crammed with one excellent work after another.  And, they were amazed that it was free...What  excellent values Edinburgh has to offer they thought.

The Scottish National
Museum

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On their last day in Edinburgh, and after having seen a large poster picture display which featured an aerial shot of the galley, Rob suggested to Beth that they attend the Royal Scottish Gallery of Modern Art.

“It’s free. I’d like to see it”, Rob suggested.

“I'm not a fan of contemporary art.” Beth retorted. “Don’t you want to go to the Edinburgh Castle?”

“The gallery is a modern art gallery... You like Matisse. Dali. Miro."

Interesting housing in
'Old Edinburgh'

"A lot of people confuse 'Modern' art with 'contemporary' art". 

"I think the gallery knows the difference.  And besides, we’ve been to lots of castles and £15 apiece is a lot to spend.”

Passing Dean village en route
to the Modern Art Gallery.

They walked the two miles to the other side of Edinburgh and passed the Edinburgh castle along the way, to enter the columned entrance doors of the Museum of Modern Arts.

Marcel Duchamp's 'Fountain'

They enjoyed the modern art exhibit of the Scottish ‘Colourist' that occupied two rooms in the first building.  It seemed that perhaps Rob was right and that this gallery did focus on modern art.  As they moved to the second building, however, it was immediately obvious that they were slipping into the contemporary realm with the appearance of a life-sized doll made by stuffing a pair of nylons.  However, Beth tried to keep an open mind as she entered a room filled with large plaster structures titled "Piss Flowers" created by the British artist Helen Chadwich and her husband.  The description explained that the plaster-of-Paris moulds were made from the cavities created in snow after the artists peed in them and apparently were a statement of role reversal.  Beth noted, sadly, that the flowers were actually made in Canada while the artist was studying abroad. 

Piss Flowers

Beth continued with her open mind until she arrived at the room containing "Paint Farts" by Tom Six.  At this point she lost patience with the exhibit, decided not to stick around to find out how they were created, and retired to the lobby to wait for Rob, who had greater tolerance for contemporary art.

What da hell?

However, with the exception of Marcel Duchamp’s urinal titled ‘Fountain’, very few of the works were recognizable to him, let along enjoyable. In most cases the artists dwelled on the theme of human genitalia.  As a case in point, in one large room the four black walls were painted with a chintz-like design of white sketches of male and female parts, and, most puzzling to Rob, sitting in the centre of the room was a pedestal with a small white paper bag containing mini doughnuts. 

Leaving the gallery frustrated with the wasted afternoon, Beth turned to Rob and said in a sarcastic tone, “Just because it’s free, doesn’t mean is worth it.”