Lecce. Rob’s Morning Coffee Routine

Morning vegetable cart

 On most mornings in Lecce Rob woke earlier than Beth. As he moved about the flat, Beth would call out to remind him to raise the temperature. He would turn up the temperature from the nighttime 12° to a more comfortable 18°C. Soon enough the chill in the flat dissipated and the apartment’s humidity rose as the previous day’s freshly laundered socks and undergarments quickly dried as it lay atop the radiators. After a quick shower and shave, he would prepare a cup of chamomile tea for Beth, who preferred a slower start to the day, and placed it bedside for her before opening the balcony shutters to allow the gentle morning light to enter. Before leaving for the morning walk, Beth would suggest a morning shopping list, “Oranges, tomatoes, wine… Oh and see if you can get that delicious, rustic bread I love so much.”

Morning Fruit

Stepping out on the streets, Rob crossed traffic at pedestrian walkways without a hesitation to his step. He had learned by observing locals that this was the preferred technique to deal with congested traffic crossings. Drivers would have to make a quick decision as to whether they had time to streak quickly through the crosswalk ahead of his path or make an abrupt halt. It was indecision at a crossing that caused drivers to waiver, which often resulted in their return look of derision.  Never did a driver beep at Rob’s carefree decision.

He walked down Viale Guglielmo Marconi past the Christmas market tents made of white canvas until he reached Crem Gelateria / Caffeteria located at the corner of Viale Francesco Lo Re, where he stopped for his morning coffee and his daily Italian lesson.

Walking into the large glass door, the attractive cashier with long, flowing, wavy black hair and green eyes smiled and again wished him “Boungiorno. Eh cappuccino?”

“Si.”

“Eh pasticciotto?”

“Si.”

Rob had grown quite fond of the pasticciotto ever since the first day he visited the café. On that day, the cashier had walked over after seeing him ogle the baked goods display to give him a recommendation. 

“Try dis one. Lecce.  It is special. You must try.”

From the moment he tasted the crisp, crumbly cake filled with a lemon zest and chocolate custard centre he was hooked.

Morning cappuccino with Beth

Master barista and the follow behind
 the counter  worker

After paying the 2.40€ bill, he took the receipt over to the espresso bar and repeated his order. The gentleman, who was nearly as tall as Rob, was the master barista. Though he spoke little English, he smiled and greeted Rob by asking him about his day. Rob answered using one or two known Italian phrases which usually included walking or taking a train. After a fresh shot of espresso was brewed, the barista poured on the steamed milk before creating the day’s image atop Rob’s cappucino. Most days he made a leaf or a swan. Later in the morning when Beth returned with Rob, he would design a heart, an apple, or a pumpkin, in the steamed foam for her.

The Swan

Every morning the owner made a point of coming over to chat with Rob. Though his English was as limited as Rob’s Italian, he’d share a moment to ask Rob about Canada and his plans. Some mornings from behind the counter he’d offer Rob a sample of the kinds of pasticciotto he hadn’t yet tried. After watching Rob finish his treats, he would inquire as to whether he enjoyed them. With Rob’s cappuccino, the owner wished a good bye with a “Ciao”. Rob noted that this was more personal then the formal ‘arrivederci’ he’d received on his first morning in the Café.