Santorini: Part II - Snapshots from a Greek Isle

Looking into Oia

Santorini lies directly on a fault between two plates in the Earth’s crust. From this the island was born from hyper-geologic activity. Over the next two weeks both Beth and Rob drove to the four corners of this island to witness firsthand the evidence of its primordial origins.

Basalt beaches.

In the north they sunned themselves in the heat on black basalt beaches that stretch for kilometers.

Looking up at Fira’s Old Port on the western side of the island they could see the volcanic caldera consisting of coloured layers of basalt lava flows covered by a thick raisin bread-like layer of conglomerate rock formed of volcanic ash.

The climb to ancient Thiera

Ancient Thiera

On the southern shores they visited ‘Red Beach’- shores formed of brick-coloured volcanic rock and walked through the destroyed ancient city of Akrotiri, buried under ash and rock.

Beth climbing the cliff stairs.

Red Beach

In the east, on the low lying plains they drank from wineries that, as tradition dictates, coax their vines into a bird’s nest arrangement. This protects the flowers and grapes growing in the middle of the twisted formation from damage when the island’s frequent winds pelt the vines with light pumice glass rock.

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While travelling in their newly rented car around the island:

Passenger Two: Where are we? Find Apta on the map... we just entered that village.

Passenger One: Uh, I think Apta means "Slow". It was on the yield sign over the word slow.

Passenger Two: Oh.

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Cliffs of Fira

Vineyard bird nest vines in the sunset.

 A trip to Santorini would not be complete without watching the sunset, reputedly one of the most beautiful in the world. On their third night on the island Rob and Beth made arrangements with the three Canadians they met on the ferry to meet in Oia for sunset and dinner. Together they navigated through the narrow, cobbled streets to a vantage point that allowed for a view of the sun setting behind the volcanic island in the sea, a spectacular view of the caldera, and two different views of Oia.

Sunset view from a ferry.

As the sun set below the horizon, they marvelled at how the changing colours of the sun's rays were reflected on the white canvases of Santorini's buildings.

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On Saturday morning Rob and Beth woke uncharacteristically early as Christopher had arranged to meet Pandelis, Christopher's math teacher friend, for mushroom collecting. Pandelis had only a short time to show the Canadians the field and point out the difference between the edible mushrooms and the inedible. However, both Pandelis and Christopher were emphatic that there were no poisonous mushrooms on Santorini so there was no need to worry.

"The white mushrooms with white gills and the veil on the stem are not good. Don't pick them. Look here. This mushroom is the good one, but a little dark. It's better if you find them when the gills are still pinkish."

Beth:Champion Mushroom Collector

Although Pandelis had to leave early to tutor a student, Christopher, Beth, and Rob spent a few tranquil hours scouring the countryside for mushrooms.  Christopher was prepared to traipse the abandoned and fallow fields in boots suited to walk through thorny ground plants and the decorating remains of donkey and goat droppings. At times Rob, who generally has a stomach for the vulgar, was slightly repulsed at digging up fresh mushrooms protruding from the earth in a mass of petrified scat. When all parties had enough for a few meals they headed home. Beth had championed the greatest find with three large pinkish beauties.

After that introduction, whenever Beth and Rob passed a non-manicured field they would stop to collect mushrooms and enjoyed many meals featuring this local delicacy.

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"Elizabeth, Robert, would you like to attend a movie with us on Saturday night?"

That was music to their ears, as anyone who knows them,

knows they enjoy going to the movies.

"Is it in English?", Beth hesitated.

"Of course", confirmed Christopher, “with Greek Subtitles”.

Maria  from Boutari Winery

As it turns out, Christopher was president of the Santorini movie club. This organization selected, arranged for, and organized a movie night every Saturday throughout the off season at Boutari, one of the local wineries. This place, which screened films for tourists to learn about wine in the summer, provided the perfect location for screening.

When they arrived, Beth and Rob wished a Kali spera to Marie who was working at the winery and who they recognized from their earlier wine-tasting visit.

As they arrived just in time for the start of the movie, everyone found a seat and settled in for the show. At intermission, which was necessary to change the reels, people mulled about drinking wine and chatting.

Christopher and Emma rockin' it
old school.

After the feature film ‘Shame’ was finished, it was agreed that they would go out for a drink. Beth and Rob followed Christopher, Emma, Christopher’s brother Peter, and Peter’s wife Maria through the winding roads to a tavern that played traditional Greek music on Saturday nights.

Although the place quickly filled with cigarette smoke, the company, and the ensuing food, wine, and music were excellent.

When Rob and Beth waved at and chatted with a patron at another table that they recognized, Christopher quizzed, "Making friends?"

Unbelievably it was after 3:00 am before they all climbed into the cars and wound their way home through the dark night. Alas, there would be no mushroom picking the next morning.

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"Rob, look at this one. They're only asking 150,000 Euros. However, I think it may need some fixing up.", called out Beth while studying a website of properties for sale in Santorini.