Avignon: The Other Place for Popes

Avignon: The other place for popes

Avignon's main
downtown drive

The origin of Avignon’s beautiful medieval centre can be traced to the 14th century when the city became the largest construction zone in Europe when the Vatican chose it as the new home for the centre of Christianity.  For one hundred years Popes lived and developed the area's plumbing, sewers and local industries. The popular wine, Châteauneuf-du-Pape,  along with Provence’s most impressive monument, the ‘Palace of the Pope’,  remain as artifacts of the Vaticans presence in Avignon.  Beth however, as a great admirer of French culture, art, and its regional food was just excited to re-experience the area of France which she’d enjoyed on her last trip to Europe in 2007.

Great stone work.Notice the
pigeon for scale.

“Shall we go to Avignon or Arles?” asked Rob as he busily surfed his favourite website for a place to stay.

“What’s the difference?” Beth inquired.

“Well, Arles is the place where Van Gogh was institutionalized and painted southern France, while Avignon appears to be a larger, more beautiful place to stay.” he parroted from his web readings.

“You pick.”

Beth peers up the Rhone

Through sheer conjecture, Rob chose Avignon and hoped that Beth would be content with his decision.  This decision came into question when they entered a disheveled, dog feces-infested street where they witnessed a drug dealer conclude a transaction just as they pulled their bags into the stairwell of their pension.

Beth at the Papal Palace

“I’m not loving Avignon, yet.” was Beth's only comment as she began the ritualistic unpacking of the bags.

Dessert

That evening they walked the marble pedestrian streets of Avignon’s core where they looked into the windows of boutiques that sold sachets of lavender, regional herbs, natural beauty products, and French fashion. 

“Look at all the sales Rob.  We have to shop soon before the sales are over. Tomorrow we can shop and explore Avignon.  On Wednesday lets visit Arles.”  she planned. Rob feeling more relieved and could tell that she was feeling comfortable with Avignon despite the first impression. 

The neighbouring town
Villeneuve-les-Avignon

On Tuesday, they started their late morning with a walk to Les Halles, Avignon's farmers market.  Inside the market they were overjoyed with the assortment of neatly organized stalls.  Spice vendors, fromageries, butchers, and bakeries all teased them with their tantalizing displays.  They purchased quality produce, cheeses, and bread for their next couple meals at a very reasonable price.

View of Pont Avignon on the Rhone

Afterwards, they balanced their day with a scenic walk around the gardens of the ‘Palace of the Popes’ and looked upon the Rhone river with the view of the Avignon Bridge. Looking out, they watched as the Rhone quickly flowed southward to the Mediterranean sea as Rob whistled the nursery rhyme ‘Bridge of Avignon’ that he learned from his elementary school days.  Beth, unfamiliar with the song or melody, gazed at the beautiful countryside and wondered about the history of the bridge as it only went halfway across the Rhone.

Beth shops for shoes.

In the late afternoon, they shopped for shoes and French fashion at stores that appealed to them. Rob, who had been miserly throughout their stay in Italy, purchased new shoes and a shirt form Lacoste while Beth, who had trouble finding appealing sale items in Cannes, eventually found the shoes that she’d been looking for and a pair of shorts suitable for winter. 

Sun setting on Avignon