Herculaneum |
..They consulted together whether it would be most prudent to
trust to the houses, which now rocked from side to side with frequent and
violent concussions as though shaken from their very foundations; or fly to the
open fields, where the calcined stones and cinders, though light indeed, yet
fell in large showers, and threatened destruction…. Pliny the
Younger, sole account of the eruption of Mt. Vesuvius
Herculaneum Mosaic |
Rob and Beth settled into
their new accommodations in Ercolano - a small city outside of Napoli. They
selected this room because of the many, many positive reviews and it was
located in the shadow of Mt. Vesuvius. Although weather did not allow them to
climb La Rocco in Cefalu, they were determined to scale the infamous volcano
best known for the destruction of Pompeii.
Mt. Vesuvius |
On the first morning, they
climbed into their host's car and Fulvio set off to drive them to the base of
the mountain. En route they stopped at a grocer's and a produce stand to pick
up lunch for the climb. Fulvio watched over both purchases like a concerned
father to ensure that they received the local rate and not the tourist price.
Once loaded up they continued onto Mt. Vesuvius.
Fulvio carefully drove along the switchback roads that lead to the pedestrian drop off point. However, just before they reached their destination, they were stopped by a police officer who informed them that Vesuvius was closed to vehicles and hikers. Darn. On to plan B - exploring the ruins Ercolana Scavi.
Salve! |
Beth working the Herculaneum diner |
Although not nearly as famous as Pompeii, Ercolana Scavi, the excavations of the ancient Roman town Herculaneum, was destroyed in 79 AD from the same explosion that destroyed Pompeii. While Pompeii was covered by a deadly layer of ash, because of Herculaneum's proximity to the volcano, it was covered by rivers of boiling mud which resulted in the two towns being preserved differently. At Herculaneum, the heat from the flows preserved much of the bio matter in the dwellings that gave archeologists more information then Pompeii and caused wooden artifacts and building frameworks to be carbonized.
Ancient household wall paintings |
Although the excavation of
Herculaneum is on a smaller scale than Pompeii, visitors are still allowed to
walk through to explore most of the buildings. Ever since a building collapsed
in Pompeii in 2010, visitors movements around its grounds are more restricted.
Storage containers of an ancient goods shop |
After spending a few hours in
the light rain exploring the grounds of Ercolano Scavi they approached the
stone gate to exit the site. To their surprise, a staff member attending the
gate, barred their exit and warned them of a possible explosion. They didn't
understand what he was referring to until they took a couple steps further and
a car on fire came into their sight. Flames were shooting out of the hood of
the car and thick smoke was billowing up. As they waited, they roamed around,
safely keeping the stone wall between them and the fire, looking for the best
vantage point for observation. Soon enough there were a series of small booms,
but they were simply the tires exploding.
Aiuto! |
After what seemed a 15 minute
wait, a fire truck arrived and, in short order, extinguished the fire. As Rob
walked around photographing the event, a fire fighter put up his hands in
warning telling Rob not to document it.
As the way was clear, Rob and
Beth walked up the street and stopped at a cafe for a drink. As they ordered
their espresso and cappuccino, they talked with the man working at the cafe who
had also been watching the accident. Beth pointed around wondering which
vehicle was the one that had collided with the car in flames.
When he understood what they
were asking, he made a strange face and informed them, "That was no
accident. Only one car involved."
Ancient women's bath house |
MAV digital 3D re-creation of the women's bath house. |
As Beth and Rob walked away
they mused if this was somehow related to the mafia that reportedly is
ubiquitous in the Naples region. They began to invent stories that would
require a message to be sent through a car bomb.
They made their way to the
M.A.V. or Museo
Archeologico Virtuale, their second stop for
the day. This Museum provided virtual views of the ruins as the way they would
have looked before Mt Vesuvius erupted.
While they paid for the
tickets, they asked the woman who was working if she saw the car on fire as it
was just down the road. After a look of query, Rob turned the camera display towards
her to show the pictures he’d taken. With one look at the photos she shook her
head in derision and confirmed, "That was no accident."
Rob and Beth looked at each
other... ‘Message sent.’ they mused.
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