Lyon: Little Lions

School kids of Lyon

As his chosen stop en route to meet friends in Nord-Rhein Wesphalen Germany, Rob was pleased that they were able to visit Lyon since they didn’t weren’t able to fit it in during their 2007 European tour. When they arrived, Rob stared perplexed at the self-service ticket machines at Metro line B trying to locate Metro line 1 which led to metro stop Guillotiére, located near their next accommodations. Glancing around the busy underground metro line, he met the eyes of a mature women and chose to ask her for assistance.  The women, though first willing assist, only shook her head and apologized with, “Sorry. Non Anglais.” before walking away. 

Beheading Medusa

Rob once again looked around and this time met the stare of a young boy of eleven or twelve who approached Rob with a metro ticket in hand and propositioned him.

“English? One fifty.”

Host Manon and Baptiste

Rob stared at the likely invalid ticket, evaluated the illegal intentions of the young boy and ignoring his offer responded with, “Do you know where Metro line 1 is?”

“ Oh.  Metro Line 1….” echoed the boy turning to his young friend who now stood near, digging through a pocket for a second ticket.

“No. No. WHERE is Metro Line 1?”  Rob asked a second time.

Beth at the Saone

Beth, who observed the interaction from across the metro entrance recognized the signs of a scam and was incredulous that Rob was interacting with the boys.  Ardently she called out to Rob in her stern teacher voice, “Kutaa!”

*** Kutaa, the Inuktitut name meaning ‘Big” was given to Rob by the Inuit of Kimmirut, Nunavut Territories, because he towered over everyone in town.  Beth will call Rob Kutaa in public situations as a code word when she doesn’t want surrounding ears to know that she is displeased with Rob’s behavior, or when she wants his immediate attention.

Hotel Dieu along the Rhone at night.

Rob turned and, seeing Beth anxiously watching him, moved away from the boys to join her across the crowded station.

“Are you crazy? Can’t you see that was a scam?” she scowled.

“I was only getting directions.” Rob sighed just seconds before five police officers streamed out of the crowd. They rounded up four boys, including the two Rob interacted with, pressed them against the wall for frisking, and put hand cuffs onto their wrists. Both surprised by the transpiring arrest, Beth and Rob watched for a minute before Rob approached one of the officers.

Fountain at Rue Del la Republique.

“Excuse me. Bonjour.  Sorry for bothering you. Do you know where metro line 1 is?”

The officer, surprised by the English question posed to him during an arrest by the tall stranger, turned and smiled before responding, “I’m sorry there is no Metro line 1. Do you mean T1”.

After affirming that it may be metro line one, the constable stepped away from the boys and continued in a pleasant, sociable manner, “The stop is outside across the square. Keep walking and walking until you see the tram station. You can buy a ticket there.”

*            *            *            *            *            *

Place Bellecour

The next morning Beth and Rob emerged from the residence 9 Rue de Marseille. The fourth floor apartment was situated in a Chinese neighborhood of Lyon. The nearby neighbourhood was decorated with Chinese lanterns that were strung on lines stretched across the streets. After passing the Chinese bars and Indian cuisine restaurants, they continued until they crossed over the Rhone on the Guillotiére Bridge arriving at the square Place Bellecour. There they watched one of many economic protests occurring throughout Europe during this unstable economic time.

St Jean Cathedral Square

Continuing across the Bonaparte Bridge that spans the Saone River they spent midday dining and touring in the old town of Lyon. They stopped at the gothic cathedral St. Jean to watch a Ptolemaic astrological clock strike the hour, which set off a roster and various puppet-like figures into motion, before leaving to climb the stairs to Lyon’s version of Notre Dame to enjoy the panoramic view of Lyon.  After returning to the Saone River, they meandered their way up stairs and rising streets where Lyon’s historic silk trade/manufacturing took place.  As the afternoon drew to a close they stopped for a beer in a café.

After taking a sip of beer Rob thought to ask “Beth, do you have any money on you?”

“No. Do you?”

“How are we going to pay for these beers? I don’t think they take credit cards.”

After a brief apology from the bartender for accepting cash only, Beth set off wandering the neighbourhood in search of a banking machine while Rob sipped his glass of Leffe beer while watching the pedestrian traffic walking up and down the stairs adjacent to the café patio in which he sat.

Notre Dame over looking Lyon below

In the forty minutes when Beth was gone, Rob was enthralled with the gregarious behavour of three young, darker skinned males that hung about a nearby alcove smoking.  The teens soon become acutely aware of Rob’s attention and often caught his glance as he very slowly consumed his beer.

Jawlensky's Medusa 

At one point, the largest teen, appearing to take a leadership role, pulled out a cell phone and texted, while one the smallest among them watched Rob who was now trying to appear to ignore them. Shortly Rob witnessed a black sports car with tinted windows come to a stop in the street at the base of the stairs, 75 metres away. In an apparently relaxed manner, an older, heavily built, Middle Eastern man emerged from the car and looked around before giving a signal to the boys with a whisle. Rob, aware of the signal exchange, tried to remain calm as two of the smaller teens left the alcove, walked very near him as they passed and continued down to the man for a handshake before they walked back.  Rob feeling a little guarded, watched as they examined the contents sprawled across his café table as they passed. A now empty beer glass and a city tourist map with pamphlets was all they saw. 

After a few brief moments of no activity, Rob was feeling a little less tense when the older man got back into his vehicle and sped away. Then again turning his attention to the remaining teen, Rob watched as two new youths ascended the stairs, turned into the alcove, and joined in conversation with their compadres who pointed out Rob waiting in the cafe.

Stair up the Silk Quarter

When she returned, Beth feeling relieved after being briefly lost, greeted Rob with a warm smile before entering the bar to pay the bill with a fresh 50€ bill.  They departed and turned left, began to climb the extensive stairs passing the youths on their way. Rob, glancing one last time as he passed caught their stares.  At that point he waved a slight courteous good-bye, sparking the three youths back into chatter.

“What was that for” asked Beth.

“Nothing.  Just keep walking”