San Sebastián - Feels Like Home

San Sebastian 

Rob and Beth left Madrid for Northern Spain beginning their planned trek north toward Germany and eventually the UK. They expected the temperature would fall a bit as they veered north, but they’d hoped to migrate with the warm Mediterranean wind that should soon be sweeping northward. The 

Tapas at midday

Beth and snowy backdrop

preceding weeks brought pleasant winter temperatures hovering between 9°C and 16°C so when they arrived on the Basque area of Spain - found on the Atlantic coast - they were unprepared for the snow that fell!

They arrived after dark and stepped off the train into the brisk, night air.

"Oh...We are going to have to get used to the the cold again."

Waterfront walkway

The kilometre walk to the apartment that they were sharing with Adela, Unei, and their cocker spaniel Burbu, warmed them up. However, once they settled into the apartment, they recognized that, as is typical for Southern Europe, the apartment was kept rather cool. With the price of gas and single pane windows with gaps large enough for a significant breeze to squeeze through, heating is not a 

Spanish Healthcare
Protests

practical option. Adele filled a hot water bottle with boiling water and wished them goodnight as she headed off to bed. Shortly after Rob and Beth called it a night and curled up under the necessary layers of down duvets to keep warm.

Anyone that has experience with a North Ontario cottage that uses wood burning stoves is used to waking to an icy feeling set in the morning air because of falling temperatures through the night. This is the similar to southern Europe as the heat is 

shut off for the night hours. In the morning it took a while for the radiators to kick in to cut the chill in the air, it took all of Rob and Beth's will to emerge from beneath the warm bedding layers. Fortunately, the welcoming hot shower did wonders to warm their bones and their spirits and they soon were ready to set off to explore the town.

Manicured tree in the square

"It's cold out. And, I'm sorry to say, snow is predicted." advised their hosts.

They each donned a sweater, coat, hat, scarf and gloves and headed out feeling confident that they were ready for the temperature. After a couple blocks, the damp cold began to creep inside their coats, which they ignored, and continued heading toward the waterfront. When 

Friendly host Una and Adela

the snow began to fall they groaned. This wasn't supposed to happen... They were in Spain!! They pulled their clothes tighter around them and continued focusing on the beauty of the town. The wide, open streets and water front property that let in the expanse of sky was as refreshing as it was uncommon in Europe.

Bitter weather

In short order they arrived at the water front with its impressive buildings lining the wide promenade bordered by white, wrought iron railing and immaculately manicured olive trees. As they approached the railing along the sea wall that contained the expansive beach with its crashing waves, Beth gasped. "Oh!"

"Yes. It's beautiful. Isn't it?"

"No...Look." Beth countered pointing while she shuddered.

Walking Burbu

Rob turned in the direction that she was pointing and saw, equally as astonished, several people, clad only in swimming suits, heading for the water. To their collective horror Rob and Beth watched as they, without any hesitation, walked into the waves and then dove into the water. They soon realized that there were many others swimming as well - the very thought made them shudder with cold. Possibly the worst part of the swimming ritual was completed when they emerged from the water into the frigid air and sauntered across the sand to an apparent shelter found hidden beneath the walkway on which they stood.

Beth in seasonal dress with
background swimmer.

After they returned from a day of exploring San Sebastián in the snow, Adela explained that people swam all year round. "Even when it's -10°C." However, she continued to explain that there was a spa located under the walkway. "The swimmers complete a circuit between the hot tub, sauna, and the ocean."

"Oh... That explains a lot... However, I still could never do it. Especially with the long walk between the hot tub and the ocean." sighed Beth as she pulled her sweater tighter around her.