Athens: Introduction (Part II)

The Odeon

Acropolis by day

Set in present day Athens at 10:50 am.  The Tuesday morning pedestrian traffic is relatively sparse on the western path of the Acropolis. A tourist is walking with a paper cup of cappuccino in hand down Theorias Street, the pedestrian road leading toward the popular Monastraki Square. A short, thin man in his late forties in black leather pants and jacket wearing sunglasses approaches. The tourist takes note of him as he nears.

Voldemort comes from da
Grrreek werd meaning wizard

Leather Man:  (speaking with an Italian accent pointing to the cappuccino) Where did you get that my friend? I could use one of those.

Tourist: I got it back up the hill there, just after the Acropolis gate.

Leather Man: Come on. Up the hill? (looking confused) Where is that?

Tourist: Up this path five minutes there is a street to the left called Parthenos. Take that route. (pointing in the direction)

Leather Man: I’m a tourist. I just got into town two hours ago. I’m Italian - from Venice.

Tourist:  I guess… I guess I should be heading back now so I can show you the way. You want me to show you?

Leather Man: Thank you, where you from my friend?

The two begin to casually walk up Theorias Street. The Leather man walks slowly while taking frequent stops to speak. Tourist must slow his pace to match the irritating, frequent pauses.  The tourist is skeptical of the Leather Man’s honesty as he remembers the warning from the night before about the “Fake Tourists” that dupe lone travelers out of money.

Rob encouraging friends to break
out of their shell

Tourist: I’m Canadian.

Leather Man: Ahh Canadian, Bravo! Bravo! Montreal? Vancouver?

Tourist: I’m from a place near Toronto.

Leather Man: Very good, Ontario. I’ve been to Montreal. You speak French?

Tourist: Not very well. Un peu.

Leather Man:  I speak French better then English. I speak four languages- French English, Italian, and Spanish. I am a manufacturing engineer here for work.

Tourist: Oh your English is pretty good? (smiles with the compliment)

 Leather Man:  I have been to Canada five times. Last time I was between Ottawa and British Columbia.

Tourist: You mean Quebec? (looks skeptical)

A narrow victory over the
two closest german competitors

Leather Man: Si, Si. Yes. While I was there my friend gives me a dog…pup..puppy (opens wallet to shows the tourist a picture of himself standing beside and a full grown German Sheppard)

Leather Man:  My baby is seven years old now.  My friend visits me in Venice and can’t believe how big my dog is. (gestures to show how high the dog is)  Hey, do you have a name my friend?

Tourist: My name is Rob or Robert. And you?

Leather Man: (stops and speaks with surprised enthusiasm) Roberto!! MY NAME is Roberto! I am named after my grandfather. He was Roberto.

Agora museum

Tourist: I was named after my Father. (more wary of Leather Man as the coincidences accumulate)

Leather Man: How old are you Roberto?

Tourist: 48 years old.

Leather Man: (pauses, then smiles) In one month and 4 days I will be 50. I am a Christmas Eve baby. (starts walking again) Have you been in Athens long? Which hotel are you staying at?

Tourist: I’ve been in town a few days but I’m not in a hotel.  I have an apartment. 
The tourist is guarded and is reluctant to give out personal info.

Leather Man: I’m staying downtown at the Intercontinental Hotel. You know this place? It is a nice hotel. 

Leather Man opens wallet again and pulls out a square coded key card labeled ‘Intercontinental Hotel Luxury Suites’, hands it to the tourist who examines it then hands it back.

Tourist:  So, we are almost there.  What are you gonna do the rest of your morning? (changing topic gladly)

Four Greek Gods?

Leather Man: (gestures toward the Acropolis) Oh I saw the Acropolis and the Agora already.

Tourist:  You did all that in just two hours? I spent 2 1/2 hours on just the Acropolis on Sunday! (skeptical expression.)

Leather Man: Yes, my girlfriend is flying in from Venice to meet me. She will be here today. 

Leather Man opens his wallet again to show another picture. This time the picture is of himself in casual shirt and jeans with his arm around a much younger looking curvaceous brunette in a revealing dress.

Tourist:  She’s a good looking woman.

Temple of Zeus ruins

Leather Man: Are you alone here?

Tourist:  No, I’m on a morning walk. My wife is back at the apartment. You know how women need a little extra time in the morning, eh?

Leather Man: I’m not married. I like f#%@g being a single guy. I have a free will. You know what I mean?

There is a long pause in conversation as they arrive at the street where the Café is located.

Tourist:  Ah…this is the place you want that cappuccino?

Leather Man: It is here. I don’t need coffee now. Lets go this way. (points to the direction continuing along the Acropolis)  My girlfriend, she will be arriving today form Venice she, and then I meet with her.

Tourist: My place is just down this road, I think my wife will be ready about now. (attempting to dodge the Leather man)

Leather Man: You like wine?

Tourist: Sure. Who doesn’t?

Leather Man: You come, you come with me.  I know a good place with good f#%@g wine. 

The tourist has heard enough and takes the opportunity to leave.

Tourist: Thanks for the offer, Roberto. I must get back now. Thanks for the conversation. It was a pleasure meeting you. Have a good stay in Athens.

Leather Man:  Ah, come on… just for a little while.  We’ll have a glass of wine.  It’s a good place.

Tourist:  No. The offer sound lovely.  I really have to get going.  Ciao and enjoy your visit.

Leather Man: Ahhh, okay. Bye my friend. Nice meeting you.

If you wish to read about the real Roberto (Francesco) check out this link. 

29 Reviews of People to avoid in Athens

Athens: Introduction (Part I)

Beth Vies Athens from the Acropolis

Rob and Beth decided to leave Thessaloniki one day early. It was a busy, big city, and although there were some parts that were worth experiencing, they were anxious to move on to Athens. They packed, boarded the cross town bus toward the central train station, and ate a breakfast of spanakopida (phyllo pastry filled with cheese and spinach), coffee, and beer, before boarding the train to Athens. Although Greece cancelled all international trains since the economic crisis, trains were still running within Greece.

Train View of Greece

During the 500 km trip train trip it was difficult to do anything but look out at the stunning scenery as the train climbed and meandered for five and one half hours through the Pindos mountain range. However Beth did manage to read some of Rick Steve's travel book on Greece and delighted in informing Rob of such facts as, "Over 80 % of Greece is covered by mountains." and "Greeks eat more cheese per capita than any other country. They eat approximately 65 pounds/person a year most of which is Feta."

Gates of the Odeon

Although they were advised to take a cab to their new accommodations in an email from Rhea - their Athens’ host - as protests may make travel difficult, they chose to take the metro anyways. As they made their way through the pristine metro system that was built for the 2004 Olympics and boarded the red line train they reasoned that, if needed, they could always flag down a cab.   Soon they realized the wisdom of Rhea's advice... although the train slowed down it didn't stop at three stations including their stop the Akropoli. When they emerged from the following station it was suggested by Rob that they walk to the apartment, after all they had been sitting all day.  Beth agreed as she appreciated the opportunity to burn calories to make room for the dessert sampling that was sure to come.

The Acropolis at Night

Rhea greeted her guests through the street level window of the apartment, welcomed them in, and provided information about the apartment and the local area. On a map she highlighted good places to eat and indicated where some key markets were located. As Rob and Beth headed out for dinner, Rhea pointed to one square on the map and advised them to stay away from there. "It is the 39th anniversary of the riot led by students against the military regime. Sometimes the protests are violent. There will be police everywhere especially since there is more unrest these days." These words were echoed the Monastiraki Square and that most violence had occurred within that area.

The Parthenon

With the advice ringing in their ears and the map in hand they set off with Rob leading the way to one of the recommended restaurants for dinner. Although the streets were not difficult to navigate, they were distracted by the glowing vision of the Acropolis and the greetings of restaurant proprietors.  Unlike the pushy hosts that accost passing pedestrians in the St Michael’s neighbourhood in Paris, the Athens’ hosts invites with a kinder greeting, provides helpful navigation, and follows with, “And if you get hungry, stop by and we will treat you to a Greek wine or an Ouzo as our treat”. 

Monastiraki Square

While they wandered along the streets of the old town, Beth continued to share tidbits of information with Rob. "15% of Greece's economy is based on tourism so, despite the in Rick Steve's book when he advised travellers that protests were limited to country's turmoil, people continue to be quite friendly to tourists."  As they continued through the streets, Beth began to worry that Rob was inadvertently leading them in the direction of the Monastiraki Square and the protests. "Are you sure this isn't the area where the protests are?”, she quizzed Rob anxiously.

"No. I'm positive. That square is further away.", Rob retorted.

Moments later they emerged from one of the many side streets into an open area. Directly in front of them was a police bus with dozens of officers standing beside it in full riot gear complete with shields. Both could see that on the other side of the square there was another busload of officers.

"Uh, are you still sure?"

“Yes.”, Rob hesitated, “But let’s go back this way.”

Beth Styling

Turning around they headed back along a road that was comfortably crowded with people. As they looked for the restaurant, Beth remembered a warning about Athens that she shared with Rob. Each country or area, it seems, has its own scam and Athens was no exception. Apparently the Athens’ scam targets single, male travellers. An Athenian will approach a lone, male traveller and pretend to be a fellow traveller new to Athens. He will befriend the lone male and entice them to a local bar called "Hollywood Pub". After he is lured into buying a round and possibly some food, he is given a bill for hundreds of euros. The proprietor of the establishment is said to take part of the scam.

Beth shared the information with Rob and warned, "I know you are friendly and could possibly fall victim to this scam. Just thought you should know."

Temp of Hephaistos

As they continued to hunt for the restaurant down one poorly lit road equipped with a map written in Roman alphabet through a city labeled in Greek Cyrillic, a man, dressed in a suit, stopped and asked if he could help them find something. Both attempted to say the name of the restaurant to this stranger using their best take on the pronunciation while pointing to the general location on the map. He stared at it for a moment, and then said, "No. I don't know this restaurant. I know a better one. Follow me."

Fish Market Catches of the Day

He then proceeded to lead them down a few quiet, dark streets talking congenially all the while. The more he talked, the more Beth and Rob thought about the Athens’ scam, stole worried looks at each other, and wondered how to get away from this situation.

Beth inadequately objected, "Uhm, I feel badly about you walking so far out of your way to show us this restaurant. You shouldn't worry about us. We'll find our way."

Bon Appetite

First Athens Night Feast

"No problem. Some nights I walk home that way” he pointed with a motion. “Some nights I walk home this way. Don't worry.", as he continued to lead them down the back streets...

In no time at all, the three came upon a restaurant where the stranger walked up to the proprietor and introduced himself in formal Greek to the host. After which he turned back to Rob and Beth and wished them "Bon appetite", before setting once again on his way.

Rob and Beth settled in for an excellent Grecian multi-course dinner including what would turn out to be the best "Fava beans of Santorini " that they would have during their stay in Greece. Alas, not every friendly stranger in Athens is a scam artist.

Thessaloniki: City of Chaos

1. Train View in Greece

It was decided that Sofia would be their furthest journey eastward - Istanbul would have to wait until their next trip, in part due to Beth’s fear of flying, in part due to the inaccessibility of functioning trains in Turkey, and in part due to recent violent experience riding on Bulgarian buses. It was decided that Greece and the ancient city of Thessaloniki (or Saloniki by locals) would be their next destination. Thessaloniki would need to be accessed by bus as all trains into Greece were cancelled due to the recent economic crisis. As it turned out the bus ride to Saloniki was both scenic and, thankfully, uneventful. Rob, like an eager dog, bounded from one side of the bus the other to catch the scenic views of the mountains, while Beth kept careful watch on the women that sat two seats away. Beth was anxious about the woman's muttering, repeated facial ticks, and the frequent flashing of the ‘F-finger’ at the TV. However, once Rob suggested that she likely had Tourette's syndrome, Beth visibly relaxed.

2. Our Host Displays her Creations

3. Downtown loungerie

As the bus pulled into Thessaloniki, Rob and Beth's first impression of this city of two million people that was founded in 315 B.C., was that it was a community entrenched in chaos. They viewed graffiti-strewn apartment buildings with large covered balconies, heavily trafficked streets with impatient motorcyclists that swerved in and out of traffic, gated, ancient ruins that offered refuge to colonies of feral cats waiting for trash from busy cafes and shops, and mobs of people ranging from moms pushing carriages to swindlers selling faux jewelry, counterfeit name brand clothing, and presumably

stolen iPhones. All added to the impression of a city lacking organization.

“I love the chaos of Thessaloniki.", stated the host Evanthia to Rob. “It is never boring. Germany with all its organization can be really boring."

5. Arches of Galerius

During the day Rob and Beth walked extensively through the centre of town. Through the shops and bazaars they meandered, entering busy squares viewing ancient ruins, venturing into red and white bricked orthodox churches, or sampling the many treats inevitably comprised of phyllo pastry baked with butter and stuffed with feta cheese, spinach, or potato.

4. Castle View

In late afternoon they ventured, via a crowded bus, up to the top of the city. From the ancient city wall they took in the panoramic view of the downtown before venturing through the narrow streets of the old neighbourhood that survived the 1917 fire that destroyed much of the old city.

In the evening Leonidas, a server in a nearby family-run restaurant, informed them that most Greeks start dinner around 9 pm. Leo was happy to serve them the family-made retsina, a white wine that owes its characteristic flavour to the pine resin that is added during the aging process.

6. Rotunda of Galerius

“It is a good one…very clear. Do you like it?”, Leo asks. “I will get you another one. My treat”

7. The White Tower

Leo readily chose a meal for them that was both traditional and yet addressed Beth’s need for ‘no meat’ - fresh feta drizzled with olive oil and sprinkled with oregano, fresh crusty bread, boiled vegetables seasoned with oregano and lemon juice, grilled calamari, and grilled ground lamb meatballs, or keftedes, for Rob.

8. Drizzle of lemon on Keftedes

Leo happily chatted with them through dinner and encouraged them to stay for the live traditional music so that he could meet with them again when he returned from his gym workout. Unfortunately Rob and Beth declined the gracious offer after their long day of travel and bid Leo "Ciao, until the next time we meet."

Plovdiv: Why you should sit at the front of the bus.

1. Plovdiv City Coat of Arms

2. Old Plovdiv bath house and
first highschool in yellow

A day trip to Plovdiv was highly recommended by Trip Advisor so on the second day in Sofia Beth and Rob decided to do just that. Although Plovdiv is the second largest city in Bulgaria they read that it had charm and a beautiful old city centre complete with Roman ruins.  Plovdiv also is among the oldest continuously inhabited places in the world. They were looking forward to taking the Free Plovdiv Tour especially since the others were time well spent. Alexander, their Sofia host, recommended that they take the bus rather than the train since busses were more frequent and travelled faster.

3. Roman Odeon Theatre

Arriving at the bus station required them to overcome the obstacle of reading instructions and labels that were written in Cyrillic. They concentrated on each direction sign as a preschooler reading their first picture book and recognized the painstaking efforts required by illiterate people when trying to get around. The ticket agent handed them two tickets, thoughtfully point to the gate number on each ticket and warned them, "Don't be late." With that advise ringing in their ears they went outside and waited near the front of the bus by its front closed door for the driver who was amicably chatting with another driver.  After one cursory glance at the tickets, the driver pointed at the open door located halfway down the bus.  Rob chose the seats immediately behind the middle doorway as these appeared to have the most legroom.

4. Enjoying the ride

The bus was a typical bus apart from a few exceptions. The chain tethered across the aisle deterred curious passengers from accessing or possibly annoying the driver. Additionally, the bus was well shy of being half full yet the majority of passengers sat in the front half of the bus. Behind Rob and Beth there sat only four people - three men and one woman each sitting by themselves.

5. The tour group in the old
revival style city

They settled in for the two hour ride with Rob looking out at the scenery with camera in hand from the window seat and Beth reading on her iPad in the aisle seat. After an hour into their two-hour trip, Rob's head settled on the railing bar in front of him as he slept while Beth continued to be immersed in her reading. Inconspicuously the woman who was perhaps in her early forties, disheveled hair, and with what Rob would later call "crazy eyes", walked up from behind, reached over, and started rubbing Rob's head. Rob logically assumed that it was Beth rubbing his head but was annoyed with the vigour with which she was doing so and then was completely startled when she smacked down hard on it. Rob’s head shot up and he turned to give Beth an earful for waking him, but hesitated when he focused his dilating eyes on the petite woman who stood before them.

Beth muttered to Rob, "Maybe she wants to see our tickets."

6. Tsveta speaks to the group

As Rob focused his attention to his breast pocket to retrieve his bus ticket the woman held out her hand in a cupped fashion as if ready to receive it but then quickly, to Rob’s utter astonishment, turned her hand and cuffed him.  The first blow struck him on the beak, followed by a second clubbing down on the top of his head as if she was a mother admonishing a child. Rob instinctually raised his arms into a defensive stance as if he were the child receiving punishment.

7. Beth reading on iPad

Beth, looking on in shock, became the next victim as the crazed woman began to reign down slaps on Beth's head and face in a waterwheel fashion. At one point she turned and slapped the iPad several times. Beth, who was clearly not thinking straight, was more perturbed by the fact that every time the woman slapped the tablet screen it turned the pages of the novel she was reading, losing her spot. When the woman turned her violence back on Beth's head she also held up her hands in defence and stupidly called out, "What did I do?"

8. The Fig Hand

The woman backed away holding up her hand, fist clenched with her thumb between her first and second finger (known as "Fig Hand") and returned, walking backwards to her seat with a surly expression.

9. A revival style home

Both Rob and Beth sat in stunned silence for a few moments then looked around the bus to see that only one person had observed the unprovoked attack as many of the other passengers were sleeping. This observer gave a somewhat empathetic look, shrugged, and then turned her attention back out the window.

For the next five or ten minutes both victims debriefed what had happened while casting nervous glances backwards. Rob informed Beth that "Fig Hand" was a gesture that in some countries is considered the same as lifting the middle finger or, less commonly, a gesture used to ward off the evil eye. During the conversation Beth insisted that she was a "crazy gypsy" (sorry, not politically correct) while Rob leaned towards the theory that she was mentally unstable and reasoned, "She likely has schizophrenia."

This last comment did nothing to calm Beth's nerves as she reminded Rob that now infamous Canadian Vince Li was schizophrenic and became more anxious of the fact that the deranged woman was sitting only two seats behind them with no one in between.

10. Chess in the park

Once she returned to her seat, the woman began to lightly mutter while looking in their direction, “Sleep… Sleep…” which made them even more anxious. Anyone who read Stephen King's book ‘Thinner’ would recognize the similarity in the way the gypsy in that story caressed the arm of a man in passing and whispered, "Thinner". The man, who was obese at the time, began to lose weight and, being a Stephen King novel, continued until the brink of death. We quickly decided to move toward the front of the bus and claimed the last two open seats that were together, and like frightened sheep, took refuge in the herd.

Beth chose the window seat this time and not just to give Rob more leg room. After a period of calm, long enough for Beth to be absorbed once again in the task of reading, Rob stood up, surprising Beth, to confront the woman who had crept once more up the aisle and was now directly behind them. He grasped her arm and ordered her, in his best loud teacher voice, "Go back to your seat." When she started to say something -presumably in Bulgarian- he repeated, while forcibly guiding her to her place at the back of the bus, "Go back to your seat."

11. Three of the well fed strays

She complied but again as she walked backwards to her seat she held a "Fig Hand" at them all the while with an angry expression. This time the event did not go unnoticed as several people nearby were woken by Rob's emphatic statements. Unfortunately they probably wondered what this large crazy American (sorry again) was doing to this pathetic Bulgarian woman. Only the spectator who witnessed the earlier incident glanced warily at the woman.

12. A wonderful Bulgarian meal

For the remainder of the trip Rob vigilantly kept an eye out for the ‘Crazy Lady’ while Beth practiced the "horned hand signal" which is another gesture used to ward off the evil eye.  For the remainder of the ride she did not approach again and thankfully got off the bus a few stops before they did, exiting while holding up fig hand at her victims and giving them menacingly looks. Both Beth and Rob looked awkwardly around the bus to again see the spectator also shrug her shoulders looking just as confused.

13. At the back of the bus.

With a sigh of relief they disembarked at their destination and enjoyed an uneventful day touring Plovdiv. Although they hoped to get a seat near the front of the bus for the return trip, it was once again filled before they arrived. Settling for a seat at the very back of the bus they reasoned that at least no one could sneak up behind them.

Plovdiv Evening

Sofia: Bulgaria's City of Lions

1.The Lion: Symbol of Sofia

Neither Rob nor Beth knew much about Bulgaria before arriving, and truth be told, it was not a destination that either thought much about. However, the capital, Sofia (SO/ fia), was located directly between Romania and Greece and thus it became a destination of convenience. They arrived near midnight and the desolate appearance of the underground train station did nothing to alter any negative preconception they may have had.  Though once inside the train station proper their impression began to change.

2. Sofia's New Subway lines

It was positively surprising to learn, upon entering the downtown core by taxi how clean and well-maintained the buildings and sidewalks were. Additionally, throughout their time in Sofia the people they encountered were genuinely helpful and pleasant - from the cab driver who made phone calls for them and waited ten minutes until their landlord to arrived with the keys, to the gentleman who offered them a cut ahead of him in the grocery line because they had only a few items. Overall, they were impressed with Bulgaria, its people, and would recommend a visit to anyone.

3. Niki our guide and group

As in Bucharest, they decided to take advantage of the free tour that was offered. The guide, Niki, was very friendly and knowledgeable. As he showed the tour group that consisted of Germans, Greeks, Turks, an Aussie, one Dutch and of course Canadians around they could sense the pride he had in his city.

5. St. Nedelya Church

Niki lead the group down yellow bricked streets of the old town while providing his personal perspective on the history of Bulgaria, and specifically Sofia. Our attention was drawn alternatively between massive buildings built during communist rule and ornate buildings of worship that included a mosque, a synagogue, a Roman Catholic Church and a Greek Orthodox Church all located within two square blocks.

5. St. Sofia Cathedral 

6. Changing of the Guards 

Niki shared relevant stories about most of the buildings as they group walked along. One interesting story he told involved St. Nedelya Church.  It was at this site that a terrorist attack was plotted by the Bulgarian communist party in 1925 to rid Bulgaria of its monarchy. Bombs planted in the church were to detonate during an important ceremony that involved many of Bulgarian's generals and monarchy. Being a typical Bulgarian, the popular ruling Monarch Tsar Boris III was late for the ceremony and, as such, escaped the assassination attempt.  Hundreds of citizens were injured by the attack and approximately eighty generals were lost- more than were killed in every war Bulgaria has been involved in combined.

7. A Traditional Shopska Salad

8. Chess Matches in The Park

At the end of the tour Rob asked for a recommendation of a good restaurant that served traditional Bulgarian food at a reasonable price. Niki led us to one located off the main streets and he and five other tour members stayed for lunch. Beth enjoyed a feast consisting of shopska - a salad of cucumbers, tomatoes, peppers, shaved feta and one olive, tarator - a cold soup made of yogurt, cucumbers and garlic, byurek- fried peppers stuffed with cheese accompanied by a tomato sauce, and fassoul yahnia- broad beans sautéed with onions. Of course the meal was accompanied by Kamenitza, a Bulgarian beer.

9. Beth Kidding Around

10. Rob working on his 100 mile diet

With a few hours of sunlight left Rob and Beth wished everyone safe travels and parted ways to continue the tour down some shopping streets - including looking into dozens of shops selling stylish Bulgarian boots. Beth was discouraged as the stores did not carry her foot size as it was apparently too large while Rob grew in size while sampling the local gelato after an already filling lunch. The day was capped off by attending a profession football game - Bulgaria versus Ukraine. Although the online write up later described it as "lacklustre" it was satisfying enough for the 5€ they paid for prime seating, despite the fact that the host team lost by a score of 1-0.

11. Ukraine 1- Bulgaria 0

Two metro stops later on the immaculate subways, they found their way "home" for the evening. Relaxed in their apartment complete with a kitchenette, full bathroom, sitting area and bedroom for only $29 CDN per night. Thank you airbnb! Indeed Bulgaria was an unexpected pleasure.