Thessaloniki: City of Chaos

1. Train View in Greece

It was decided that Sofia would be their furthest journey eastward - Istanbul would have to wait until their next trip, in part due to Beth’s fear of flying, in part due to the inaccessibility of functioning trains in Turkey, and in part due to recent violent experience riding on Bulgarian buses. It was decided that Greece and the ancient city of Thessaloniki (or Saloniki by locals) would be their next destination. Thessaloniki would need to be accessed by bus as all trains into Greece were cancelled due to the recent economic crisis. As it turned out the bus ride to Saloniki was both scenic and, thankfully, uneventful. Rob, like an eager dog, bounded from one side of the bus the other to catch the scenic views of the mountains, while Beth kept careful watch on the women that sat two seats away. Beth was anxious about the woman's muttering, repeated facial ticks, and the frequent flashing of the ‘F-finger’ at the TV. However, once Rob suggested that she likely had Tourette's syndrome, Beth visibly relaxed.

2. Our Host Displays her Creations

3. Downtown loungerie

As the bus pulled into Thessaloniki, Rob and Beth's first impression of this city of two million people that was founded in 315 B.C., was that it was a community entrenched in chaos. They viewed graffiti-strewn apartment buildings with large covered balconies, heavily trafficked streets with impatient motorcyclists that swerved in and out of traffic, gated, ancient ruins that offered refuge to colonies of feral cats waiting for trash from busy cafes and shops, and mobs of people ranging from moms pushing carriages to swindlers selling faux jewelry, counterfeit name brand clothing, and presumably

stolen iPhones. All added to the impression of a city lacking organization.

“I love the chaos of Thessaloniki.", stated the host Evanthia to Rob. “It is never boring. Germany with all its organization can be really boring."

5. Arches of Galerius

During the day Rob and Beth walked extensively through the centre of town. Through the shops and bazaars they meandered, entering busy squares viewing ancient ruins, venturing into red and white bricked orthodox churches, or sampling the many treats inevitably comprised of phyllo pastry baked with butter and stuffed with feta cheese, spinach, or potato.

4. Castle View

In late afternoon they ventured, via a crowded bus, up to the top of the city. From the ancient city wall they took in the panoramic view of the downtown before venturing through the narrow streets of the old neighbourhood that survived the 1917 fire that destroyed much of the old city.

In the evening Leonidas, a server in a nearby family-run restaurant, informed them that most Greeks start dinner around 9 pm. Leo was happy to serve them the family-made retsina, a white wine that owes its characteristic flavour to the pine resin that is added during the aging process.

6. Rotunda of Galerius

“It is a good one…very clear. Do you like it?”, Leo asks. “I will get you another one. My treat”

7. The White Tower

Leo readily chose a meal for them that was both traditional and yet addressed Beth’s need for ‘no meat’ - fresh feta drizzled with olive oil and sprinkled with oregano, fresh crusty bread, boiled vegetables seasoned with oregano and lemon juice, grilled calamari, and grilled ground lamb meatballs, or keftedes, for Rob.

8. Drizzle of lemon on Keftedes

Leo happily chatted with them through dinner and encouraged them to stay for the live traditional music so that he could meet with them again when he returned from his gym workout. Unfortunately Rob and Beth declined the gracious offer after their long day of travel and bid Leo "Ciao, until the next time we meet."