Sofia: Bulgaria's City of Lions

1.The Lion: Symbol of Sofia

Neither Rob nor Beth knew much about Bulgaria before arriving, and truth be told, it was not a destination that either thought much about. However, the capital, Sofia (SO/ fia), was located directly between Romania and Greece and thus it became a destination of convenience. They arrived near midnight and the desolate appearance of the underground train station did nothing to alter any negative preconception they may have had.  Though once inside the train station proper their impression began to change.

2. Sofia's New Subway lines

It was positively surprising to learn, upon entering the downtown core by taxi how clean and well-maintained the buildings and sidewalks were. Additionally, throughout their time in Sofia the people they encountered were genuinely helpful and pleasant - from the cab driver who made phone calls for them and waited ten minutes until their landlord to arrived with the keys, to the gentleman who offered them a cut ahead of him in the grocery line because they had only a few items. Overall, they were impressed with Bulgaria, its people, and would recommend a visit to anyone.

3. Niki our guide and group

As in Bucharest, they decided to take advantage of the free tour that was offered. The guide, Niki, was very friendly and knowledgeable. As he showed the tour group that consisted of Germans, Greeks, Turks, an Aussie, one Dutch and of course Canadians around they could sense the pride he had in his city.

5. St. Nedelya Church

Niki lead the group down yellow bricked streets of the old town while providing his personal perspective on the history of Bulgaria, and specifically Sofia. Our attention was drawn alternatively between massive buildings built during communist rule and ornate buildings of worship that included a mosque, a synagogue, a Roman Catholic Church and a Greek Orthodox Church all located within two square blocks.

5. St. Sofia Cathedral 

6. Changing of the Guards 

Niki shared relevant stories about most of the buildings as they group walked along. One interesting story he told involved St. Nedelya Church.  It was at this site that a terrorist attack was plotted by the Bulgarian communist party in 1925 to rid Bulgaria of its monarchy. Bombs planted in the church were to detonate during an important ceremony that involved many of Bulgarian's generals and monarchy. Being a typical Bulgarian, the popular ruling Monarch Tsar Boris III was late for the ceremony and, as such, escaped the assassination attempt.  Hundreds of citizens were injured by the attack and approximately eighty generals were lost- more than were killed in every war Bulgaria has been involved in combined.

7. A Traditional Shopska Salad

8. Chess Matches in The Park

At the end of the tour Rob asked for a recommendation of a good restaurant that served traditional Bulgarian food at a reasonable price. Niki led us to one located off the main streets and he and five other tour members stayed for lunch. Beth enjoyed a feast consisting of shopska - a salad of cucumbers, tomatoes, peppers, shaved feta and one olive, tarator - a cold soup made of yogurt, cucumbers and garlic, byurek- fried peppers stuffed with cheese accompanied by a tomato sauce, and fassoul yahnia- broad beans sautéed with onions. Of course the meal was accompanied by Kamenitza, a Bulgarian beer.

9. Beth Kidding Around

10. Rob working on his 100 mile diet

With a few hours of sunlight left Rob and Beth wished everyone safe travels and parted ways to continue the tour down some shopping streets - including looking into dozens of shops selling stylish Bulgarian boots. Beth was discouraged as the stores did not carry her foot size as it was apparently too large while Rob grew in size while sampling the local gelato after an already filling lunch. The day was capped off by attending a profession football game - Bulgaria versus Ukraine. Although the online write up later described it as "lacklustre" it was satisfying enough for the 5€ they paid for prime seating, despite the fact that the host team lost by a score of 1-0.

11. Ukraine 1- Bulgaria 0

Two metro stops later on the immaculate subways, they found their way "home" for the evening. Relaxed in their apartment complete with a kitchenette, full bathroom, sitting area and bedroom for only $29 CDN per night. Thank you airbnb! Indeed Bulgaria was an unexpected pleasure.