Athens: Introduction (Part I)

Beth Vies Athens from the Acropolis

Rob and Beth decided to leave Thessaloniki one day early. It was a busy, big city, and although there were some parts that were worth experiencing, they were anxious to move on to Athens. They packed, boarded the cross town bus toward the central train station, and ate a breakfast of spanakopida (phyllo pastry filled with cheese and spinach), coffee, and beer, before boarding the train to Athens. Although Greece cancelled all international trains since the economic crisis, trains were still running within Greece.

Train View of Greece

During the 500 km trip train trip it was difficult to do anything but look out at the stunning scenery as the train climbed and meandered for five and one half hours through the Pindos mountain range. However Beth did manage to read some of Rick Steve's travel book on Greece and delighted in informing Rob of such facts as, "Over 80 % of Greece is covered by mountains." and "Greeks eat more cheese per capita than any other country. They eat approximately 65 pounds/person a year most of which is Feta."

Gates of the Odeon

Although they were advised to take a cab to their new accommodations in an email from Rhea - their Athens’ host - as protests may make travel difficult, they chose to take the metro anyways. As they made their way through the pristine metro system that was built for the 2004 Olympics and boarded the red line train they reasoned that, if needed, they could always flag down a cab.   Soon they realized the wisdom of Rhea's advice... although the train slowed down it didn't stop at three stations including their stop the Akropoli. When they emerged from the following station it was suggested by Rob that they walk to the apartment, after all they had been sitting all day.  Beth agreed as she appreciated the opportunity to burn calories to make room for the dessert sampling that was sure to come.

The Acropolis at Night

Rhea greeted her guests through the street level window of the apartment, welcomed them in, and provided information about the apartment and the local area. On a map she highlighted good places to eat and indicated where some key markets were located. As Rob and Beth headed out for dinner, Rhea pointed to one square on the map and advised them to stay away from there. "It is the 39th anniversary of the riot led by students against the military regime. Sometimes the protests are violent. There will be police everywhere especially since there is more unrest these days." These words were echoed the Monastiraki Square and that most violence had occurred within that area.

The Parthenon

With the advice ringing in their ears and the map in hand they set off with Rob leading the way to one of the recommended restaurants for dinner. Although the streets were not difficult to navigate, they were distracted by the glowing vision of the Acropolis and the greetings of restaurant proprietors.  Unlike the pushy hosts that accost passing pedestrians in the St Michael’s neighbourhood in Paris, the Athens’ hosts invites with a kinder greeting, provides helpful navigation, and follows with, “And if you get hungry, stop by and we will treat you to a Greek wine or an Ouzo as our treat”. 

Monastiraki Square

While they wandered along the streets of the old town, Beth continued to share tidbits of information with Rob. "15% of Greece's economy is based on tourism so, despite the in Rick Steve's book when he advised travellers that protests were limited to country's turmoil, people continue to be quite friendly to tourists."  As they continued through the streets, Beth began to worry that Rob was inadvertently leading them in the direction of the Monastiraki Square and the protests. "Are you sure this isn't the area where the protests are?”, she quizzed Rob anxiously.

"No. I'm positive. That square is further away.", Rob retorted.

Moments later they emerged from one of the many side streets into an open area. Directly in front of them was a police bus with dozens of officers standing beside it in full riot gear complete with shields. Both could see that on the other side of the square there was another busload of officers.

"Uh, are you still sure?"

“Yes.”, Rob hesitated, “But let’s go back this way.”

Beth Styling

Turning around they headed back along a road that was comfortably crowded with people. As they looked for the restaurant, Beth remembered a warning about Athens that she shared with Rob. Each country or area, it seems, has its own scam and Athens was no exception. Apparently the Athens’ scam targets single, male travellers. An Athenian will approach a lone, male traveller and pretend to be a fellow traveller new to Athens. He will befriend the lone male and entice them to a local bar called "Hollywood Pub". After he is lured into buying a round and possibly some food, he is given a bill for hundreds of euros. The proprietor of the establishment is said to take part of the scam.

Beth shared the information with Rob and warned, "I know you are friendly and could possibly fall victim to this scam. Just thought you should know."

Temp of Hephaistos

As they continued to hunt for the restaurant down one poorly lit road equipped with a map written in Roman alphabet through a city labeled in Greek Cyrillic, a man, dressed in a suit, stopped and asked if he could help them find something. Both attempted to say the name of the restaurant to this stranger using their best take on the pronunciation while pointing to the general location on the map. He stared at it for a moment, and then said, "No. I don't know this restaurant. I know a better one. Follow me."

Fish Market Catches of the Day

He then proceeded to lead them down a few quiet, dark streets talking congenially all the while. The more he talked, the more Beth and Rob thought about the Athens’ scam, stole worried looks at each other, and wondered how to get away from this situation.

Beth inadequately objected, "Uhm, I feel badly about you walking so far out of your way to show us this restaurant. You shouldn't worry about us. We'll find our way."

Bon Appetite

First Athens Night Feast

"No problem. Some nights I walk home that way” he pointed with a motion. “Some nights I walk home this way. Don't worry.", as he continued to lead them down the back streets...

In no time at all, the three came upon a restaurant where the stranger walked up to the proprietor and introduced himself in formal Greek to the host. After which he turned back to Rob and Beth and wished them "Bon appetite", before setting once again on his way.

Rob and Beth settled in for an excellent Grecian multi-course dinner including what would turn out to be the best "Fava beans of Santorini " that they would have during their stay in Greece. Alas, not every friendly stranger in Athens is a scam artist.