Palermo: Wet and Creepy

Palermo's Pretoria Square

On their last full day in Cefalu they choose to go on a day trip to Palermo - the largest city in Sicily.  Since it was raining, they reasoned that being in a big city was likely a better choice than a small town as there should be someplace to visit inside away from the rain. The city was only an hour away from Cefalu and was an easy train trip.

The rain pelted them as they meandered their way around the streets of Palermo. Although they initially walked away when told 10€, they folded like a house of cards when the street vendor quickly dropped the price to 5€. Although they both had on rain jackets they reasoned that an umbrella would provide some additional protection against the driving rain.

Metal works market street

Rob had read that the charm of Palermo was found in the rustic beauty of the growing dilapidation of the old buildings, analogous to antique furniture becoming more valuable as it gains scars with decades of wear. The buildings were majestic but few were well maintained.

They visited the tourist information booth to obtain information about their options for the day and to inquire specifically about the catacombs. Beth, who had read about them online, speculated it was a good choice- especially as they were inside and provide some protection from the rain.

Most of the tourist destinations were centralized in the old town. The catacombs, requiring two buses, was an exception. Rob and Beth after they were handed a map and were informed of the bus numbers, set out on their way.

Rainy in Palermo

With relative ease they maneuvered through the transit system, and following the guidance of the bus driver, they walked two blocks cowering under the umbrella, to the catacombs. There was a moment when they thought it was not open to the public as there were construction workers just inside the entrance working on the building. Thankfully they were able to gain admittance.

Beth had read, that the catacombs in Palermo were not for the feint of heart. The website described them as ‘eerie as a few of the skeletons were still were clothed’. Despite the advanced warning which turned out to be an understatement, they were not prepared for the experiencing of Palermo's catacombs.

Creepy hallway entrance

There were hundreds of skeletons on display and each one was dressed in the attire of their era. The skeletons were stuffed to preserve their shape - often straw could be seen peaking out their neckline. Most skeletons were fixed upright - held in place by wire wrapped around the neck. Many had mummified skin clinging to it and tufts of hair - either on the head or facial – were present. More often than not the expressions on the face were grotesque- as if they stuck eternally moaning or screaming out in agony. It was the first site that Rob and Beth would have appreciated visiting during the busy tourist season since having more people around would have lightened the mood.

"Welcome"

There were many hallways of remains, each for different groupings - one for gentlemen, one for ladies, one for children, families, virgins, religious men. The babies and children were, not surprisingly, particularly disturbing. In one case a young boy was posed with, presumably his little sister, on a rocking chair. With his arms around her, even in death, it looked like he was protecting her.

Yikes!

Back when the Catacombs was a functioning mortuary it was prestigious to have one’s body placed in Palermo’s Cappucini Catacombs. For as long as the family continued to pay, the body was maintained in position.  If payments ceased, it was removed for a more traditional burial. While in the Catacombs family members would visit the bodies of their deceased loved ones, even holding the hands of the body so they could participate in prayer. The last person to be added to the catacombs was a two-year-old girl in 1920. Her body was treated with a method of preservation and to date looks quite eerily alive, almost as if she was sleeping.

Although they appreciated the unique experience that these catacombs provided, Rob and Beth were both relieved when the tour was over and they emerged, once again, into the pouring rain to board the bus that took them to the train station.

Cefalu: Making the Most of Each Day.

Duomo Square

Cefalu, the picturesque seaside village of eleven thousand, sits on the north shore of Sicily, and is famed for the ancient ruins that overlook the town from a stone outcrop named La Rocca. They read that the hike up La Rocca was invigorating, the ruins wonderful, and the vistas from the top of the hill stunning. There was no question that Rob and Beth were going to visit La Rocca, especially because of the beautiful hiking.

Cefalu from the side of La Rocca

On their second morning in Cefalu, Beth, Rob, and Eileen, a Seattle native that they met the previous day and together made plans for the hike, climbed the first one hundred metres up the staircase of La Rocca on a partly cloudy and slightly drizzly, morning.  Before reaching the ruin’s entrance, they came across a ledge that overlooked the bay and provided a great view of the town.  Unfortunately there was a sign that warned visitors against walking out onto the precipice especially on rainy days. After a quick look at the trail, Rob ventured out in complete defiance of the sign despite Beth and Eileen’s warning for caution.  However, as he came to no harm, Beth and Eileen soon followed, partook in the photos, and enjoyed the view along with Rob. 

Shores of Cefalu

After having their fill of the beautiful view of the town nestled below and the aquamarine sea splashing on its shores, they continued upward only to be greeted by a locked cage with a sign ‘Closed on days that are windy or when there is rain’. Although dejected the three salvaged the rest of the day by hiking along the shore to a nearby peninsula, at times narrowly avoiding crashing waves that covered their path, and enjoyed the pleasant coastal scenery.

Scopa: Most Popular
Card game in Italy

On the third morning, as the rain was falling heavier they rationalized that the climb to a set of locked gates was futile, so Rob and Beth walked Cefalu’s main corso to window shop at its elegant clothing stores. A relaxed cotton knit sweater with sequined elbow patches and a deck of Sicilian playing cards were the only purchases they made that day. After lunch at their favourite pasta restaurant, they sat for the afternoon in the warm shelter of the town’s pier playing skopa.  Although it is a very popular Italian card game, they've only seen older Italian men playing it - often quite competitively judging by the body language and the loudness of their voices. However, Rob and Beth looked up the rules online and set out to master this game.

More shores

On the forth day once again the morning began with rain so they postponed their climb up La Rocca and mused if the hill was open much during the winter months.  They made a late start of their morning waiting around until the weather cleared. When the day brightened they rented bicycles and spent the afternoon riding up and down the hilly terrain surrounding Cefalu.

Stairs of the Climb

On day five Rob and Beth were welcomed by a sunny morning and with it the promise of the hike. After their breakfast of espresso and pastry, they quickly headed to the base of the winding staircase leading to La Rocca’s gates. During the mere ten minutes if took for them to climb the stairs, the weather gods summoned clouds and the slightest sprinkle of rain began just as Rob and Beth walked through the open gates. The sole ticket agent at the pavilion, speaking only in Italian, indicated that entry wouldn’t be possible since the rains had started.  Dejected once more, they spent the afternoon sheltered within the confines of a café sipping drinks and playing skopa.

On the last full day in Cefalu, the rain poured harder than ever and they came to terms with the reality that a visit to La Rocca was not for them during this trip.  As they set out on a day trip to Palermo, they consoled themselves with the idea that it’s always good to leave something to do the next time one visits a place. 

Cefalu - Habit forming

Cefalu

They arrived in Cefalu after dark and, as usual, decided to tow their suitcases for the one kilometre hull along the long, narrow streets made of cobble and rock to an address found deep within the old town. Although the road was a bit rough, and at times uphill, they agreed that the going was still easier than that allowed by Bucharest sidewalks. When they finally arrived at the apartment their host was waiting for them despite the fact that were almost two hours later than planned.

The hobbit dwelling

"No problem. I know our train system and it is rarely on schedule." Mari their host reassured them as she familiarized them with the features of the apartment. Although it was bright and clean with a full kitchen, Beth recognized that it was a bit cave-like. There was only one window, with a wooden cover, above the sink that was really just for ventilation as it opened to an inner stairwell. The hobbit-sized doors contributed to the feeling that they were now living in the shire and should keep an eye out for Frodo.

Despite these ‘hobbit-esque’ aspects, the location of the apartment was perfect as it was surrounded by historical buildings and was only a short walk from the beautiful bay harbour of the Tyrrhenian Sea. They unpacked and settled in.

A few weeks earlier when they met up with Canadian friends in Santorini, Greece and Rob and Beth asked "Where should we go for lunch? To the restaurant you went yesterday that you said was so excellent?" they were met with some hesitation.

"We've already eaten there... We were hoping to go somewhere new."

This is a common sentiment - either when travelling or at home. Often people wish to try new places, always wanting to seek something better or at least different from one they've previously experienced.

Dinner at home.

Rob and Beth, while always willing to try something new, tend to quickly become loyal to places they visit. They feel that when they find good service and food quality why risk going somewhere else. Also, they find that the service and food even gets better when they return time and time again. This was true at home where they frequent places like Sorrento's for cappuccino, the Mandarin for Chinese food, Vio's for good Romanian home-cooking, Blaks for a chocolate croissant... This was also true when they travel. They often carefully select places to eat - either by asking their hosts, searching online, or generally keeping an eye out for places popular with locals. Once they find a place that is satisfying, they tend to visit it repeatedly throughout their stay realizing that there is something comforting about the familiar.

Cefalu beaches

In Cefalu mornings belonged to Al Caffe where "Une espresso macchiato, une cappuccino, une Sfolgia mela, et une croissant chocolatto, per favore." totaled 3.80€. They took their breakfast outside to the patio where they savoured the warmth of the morning sun and enjoyed the view. In one direction they could see the Mediterranean Sea with its repetition of blue crashing waves onto the Cefalu beach. In the other direction they were in awe of the contrast between the rugged cliff face of La Rocca behind the medieval stone buildings of Cefalu. Both sights - the sea and the rock - provided spectacular backdrops to the small coast town. The end of most roads in the old town opened up either to the blue of the sea or the ruggedness of the rocky hillside. Each site took Beth’s breath away and she hoped that she wouldn't grow accustomed to its beauty.

The Cefalu Romanesque Church 

Lunchtime would find them eating at an inconspicuous restaurant on the main road just outside of the old town.  They noticed Pasta Pronto et Pasti Buono the first afternoon as the patio tables were full with more people waiting for a free table in the restaurant’s minimal spaces. On that day when Beth inquired she was informed that a table would be available in approximately one hour. To pass the time the two meandered off to Al Caffe and enjoyed a glass of wine while sitting in the sun.

When they returned to the restaurant they found a table waiting for them. They ordered pasta from the specials' board and enjoyed two large servings along with a beer and a small carafe of wine - in a plastic bottle aged to perfection for days - all of which set them back 18 €. They returned every day for lunch, were served by the same friendly and efficient waiter, and enjoyed each meal as much as the first.

Walk not far from town

During the afternoons they explored Cefalu and the surrounding area by foot or bike. They soaked up what sun they could while strolling along the beaches, which were spectacular. On days when the wind blew, the waves crashed with the beautiful power of the sea. On the rare calm day, the sea rolled ever so slightly, inviting them walk to the shore's edge like a tightrope.

Cefalu and La Rocca

At dusk they shopped for produce at one of the many markets before heading home to make dinner. They reproduced many of the Sicilian recipes they sampled at restaurants, appreciating their meal’s simplicity.  By using fresh simple ingredients they found that the meal came together quickly and easily and were delicious.

In the evenings they strolled down to the same Internet cafe to enjoy a glass of wine or beer. The two young owners greeted them each night and informed them of the evening’s schedule.  “Tonight we have live music so it may get a little busy.”  “The football game’s on the screen tonight.” or “It’s Wednesday.  We’re always quiet on Wednesdays.” 

As they reconnected with family and friends and the world in general, they often reflected on their day and acknowledged that following a schedule in a new town quickly made it feel like home.

Leaving Siracusa: Another Train Experience

Town of Noto near Siracusa

Rob and Beth boarded the regional train pulling their suitcases behind them just as the doors closed. They made it... with only moments to spare. Normally they allowed copious amounts of time when making train connections, but Adrianna was very persuasive with her invitation to enjoy a glass of wine with some friends before they left. As they were visiting with her and her ex-patriot Canadian friends on her patio a few metres from the sea with the sun shining down on them, it was understandable that it was difficult to leave.

Siracusa Grotto-Ancient
Cave Dwellings

Beth and Rob were at the start of a train trip that would take them from Syracuse on the southeast coast of Sicily to Cefalu on the north central coast. They opted for the most economical option, which happily was scheduled as the shortest, but involved two transfers and three regional trains with no reserved seats.

Chocolate Display in Siracusa

The train they boarded was almost empty which made maneuvering the luggage around easier. On the less fortunate side there was an unmistakable odour that smelled suspiciously like the trains tiny pod like toilette. Despite needing to use the bathroom, Beth declined the facilities reasoning that if the smell outside the compartment was bad it would surely be horrible inside.

Train View

As the train arrived 18 minutes late to its penultimate stop, Rob informed the conductor that the connecting train that he and Beth were expecting to take would soon be leaving the station. The conductor took immediate action and assisted the Canadian tourists by phoning the connecting train to relay that there were passengers arriving late to the connection. Afterward he reassured Rob and Beth that their connection would be waiting and conveniently sitting on the adjacent track for them. With gratitude they made their connection.

As they settled on the second train, Beth realized that the bathroom situation was now becoming dire. She grabbed some tissue, as was the required precaution of train facilities, and made her way to the toilette. She opened the door and was relieved that although not pristine, it lacked the excessive smell of the previous train and it was equipped with paper. Things were looking up. The slightly disturbing feature of the bathroom was the liquid that she could see sloshing under a grate in the floor. She had never seen that on a train before but rationalized that it served the purpose of keeping the floor dry.

Train Potty

As was typical for Italian trains, the plumbing opened directly to the outside. Although it was a little unnerving to see the railway ties whizzing past through the hole at the bottom of the toilet she settled in to address the purpose at hand. As is bathroom protocol for most women, Beth hovered above the bowl.  In synchrony with the relaxation of her bladder control muscles that began the stream flowing, the train entered a tunnel turning the bathroom black as pitch. To test the darkness and adjust her vision, Beth closed her eyes and then opened them to find that she could see no difference.

Darkness may not usually be a problem when using the toilet, however, when one is hovering in the dark on a vehicle that is shaking and jostling about, the alignment of oneself with a stationary target becomes questionable. This may not have been of great concern if the train tunnel was short, but unfortunately for Beth, this particular tunnel went on for quite a while. In fact, she had completed her task long before the train’s emergence from the tunnel. When light was restored, Beth took time to assess the damage done. She was dismayed to see that the toilet seat was completely covered, and in all likelihood, the floor was also compromised. In fact, she couldn't be sure that her jeans went unscathed by the incident.

Cefalu Beach

As best as she could, she cleaned up using the thin recycled sheets of paper provided in the toilette and turned with relief to the sink to wash her hands. Although she repeatedly stepped on the floor petal that controlled the water’s flow, none came forth. Returning to her seat, she met Rob with an expression that made him asked what was wrong. She explained, in detail, as she cleansed her hands with a moist towelette that thankfully they traveled with.

As the train gained speed and banked around corners, both Rob and Beth were disturbed to see water streaming from underneath the door of the toilette likely originating from under the grates in the floor. As it quickly spread throughout the hallway outside of the compartment, Beth grudgingly acknowledged that she may have provided, no matter how insignificant, a contribution.

Siracusa: Sicilian Food and Culture

A piazza entering Ortygia- The old centre of Syracuse

Travelling for three months throughout Europe allowed both travellers to see common threads that link one place to the next. A cathedral in Siracusa Sicily is much like visiting one in Rome or even Vienna except for subtle changes in décor although the history between location differs as does the artifacts that each country displays with pride.

Siracusa's Greek Theatre

Sometime during the three months however, Rob and Beth changed their focus from churches, castles, and galleries to a different type of culture that focused mainly on the foods of the region that for them provided the best and most unique traveling experience.

Ortygia's  Fortress Castle 

In Sicily their Siracusa host, Adriana, provided them with an excellent introduction to foods of Italy’s deep south. Each morning Adriana made a concerted effort to highlight Sicilian food.

“Sweet or salty?” asked Adriana

“Salty, I think.” replied Beth

“Good.”

Breakfast at Adriana's place

Adriana started with the traditional Sicilian orange salad made of oranges, onions or fennel, oregano and chili pepper flakes, and olive oil. This she followed with roasted ricotta or smoked mozzarella, cured proscuitto or ham (for Rob), potato or spinach pies. To cleanse the palette at the end of the meal, Beth and Rob were served Cedro lemons sprinkled with sugar and salt, a sweet dessert ricotta, and always a refreshing plate of sliced pears sprinkled with cinnamon. In most cases, the food was served at room temperature with generous portions of olive oil and spice. All were delicious and equally tempting.

Beth and Adriana walk the
wall around Ortygia

One morning Adriana invited Beth and Rob to accompany her to the Siracuse market where they would have breakfast instead of dining at home. Rob and Beth, although familiar with many European markets, were curious about insights that Adriana would provide.

They started their tour at a little café at the sea-side end of the market with cappuccino, freshly squeezed orange juice, and a warm pastry stuffed with sweetened ricotta cheese.

“I will treat.” she offered.

Cleaning Sea Urchin

It took a while to cash out of the café as the cash register was broken and the cashier, although it appeared as if she could have worked there for decades, was at a loss as to the cost of their fare. It took a concerted effort by her, someone from a back room, and Adrianna offering suggestions to work out the sum of six euros.

The catch of the day.

Outside of the cafe they stopped and watched fishermen cleaning sea urchins and sorting octopus and squid, many of which were still squirming, to be sold at the market. As they walked along the rows of venders, amid the shouts and calling of the stall sales personal, Adrianna shared bits of information about some of the unique local produce.

Market stall walk

She brought their attention to the Pachino tomato, which is variety of elongated grape tomato.

“These tomatoes,” Adriana explained, "Are from the very south. The sea sprays the plants to give them a unique taste that is both sweet and salty.”

Beth took mental notes as she purchased some tomatoes for seed wondering how much she would need to spray the maturing plants to replicate its preferred growing conditions back home.

Sicily's Cedro Lemon

As they moved along, they asked about the enlarged, dimpled lemons. The vendor had one cut open and they were surprised that the pulp was about three centimetres thick and the flesh looked smaller than a typical lemon’s. Adrianna explained that they were unique to the area and could be eaten in their entirety as they had a sweeter flavour. She purchased one to serve at breakfast the next day.

Enjoying an arancini bayside.

They ended their market tour at Il Gusto dei Sapori Smarriti. This shop was renowned for its ricotta and friendly atmosphere. The owner stood outside encouraging those who passed by to try samples of his fresh ricotta that he had drizzled with cold-pressed olive oil and sprinkled with fresh oregano. Once inside the shop they were served by the son-in-law who everyone called 'Engineer' because of his degree in engineering. The Engineer frantically served his customers a variety of cheeses that were cultured daily. Each morning around 4 am he prepared the ‘made fresh daily ricotta’ in a variety of ways including the baked ricotta that Beth and Rob experienced on previous breakfasts.

The Engineer warmly extended a hand in friendship and then eagerly proceeded to introduce the cheeses that he had prepared.

“This one is made of fresh goat’s milk.” he explained as he cut off generous chunks for their sampling.

'Engineer' presents the cheese.

Another he arranged and plated with olives, sun dried tomatoes, olive oil, oregano and basil leaves. Being very particular, he suggested that this was how it was best served. Afterward, for Rob’s benefit, he cut hunks of regional salami samples including one Rob purchased that was made with black truffle. The Engineer, being a gracious host, ignored the growing customer line up to provide both a luxurious and intimate experience, done solely for the benefit of Adriana's guests. After the tasting he made Rob, Beth, and Adrianna sandwiches of fresh bread, ricotta, olive oil, and sun-dried tomatoes.

As they finished their morning feast, Rob rushed off to rent bikes as the rental facilities closed early, leaving Beth and Adrianna to enjoy a more leisurely walk back to their residences.

Duomo Square

Along the way, as they discussed life in Sicily, Adrianna was greeted by many pedestrians reinforcing Beth's impression that it is a friendly place. At one point Adrianna stopped and engaged in an animated conversation with two men in the Duomo Piazza. Although it was all in Italian, Beth clearly heard ‘Corleone’ and ‘Mafia’ said many times. As they walked away, Beth brought this up with Adrianna who explained that they were actors planning a dinner theatre and had acknowledged that the only plot tourists were interested in attending was one that included a Mafia storyline.

Bike break

After bidding "buongiorno" to Adrianna, Beth and Rob hopped on the newly-rented bikes and headed out of town. Adrianna had pointed out a papyrus reserve in the distance and this became their destination for the afternoon. As they headed out, they recognized too late that a map would be helpful. They stopped at a car rental place in hopes that they would find one there. Although the man indicated that he didn't have one, he, through pantomime and broken English, indicated that he would lead them by moped to show the way. After about one kilometre of twists and turns, he stopped and drew a simple map for them to follow. They called out "Gracie mille!" as he sped back to work.

Beth with Papyrus 

En route to the papyrus reserve, Rob and Beth biked along citrus groves stopping periodically to watch men harvest the ripe fruit. When they reached their destination they biked the muddy trail beside the papyrus marsh, which Adrianna had informed them, becomes a flowing river after winter rains. They were alone in the reserve except for the water foul and other wildlife that is so rare in the city and one man harvesting stinging nettles. When the nettles are boiled the toxin is neutralized and the greens will be eaten as a typical Sicilian delicacy.

Sunset out the front door.

Riding home, they agreed that they could have thought of no better way to experience Sicilian culture than to spend the morning shopping with Adrianna and the afternoon biking in the Sicilian sun.

Roma: Good Luck - Bad Luck... Two sides of the same coi

Rome Sunset in December

As the end of their friends' visit drew nearer, Rob and Beth began to make arrangements for the next part of their journey-Sicily. They had ventured north to meet Lori and Dave in Rome, but now it was time to chase the sun once again.

Riding the regional

On a Saturday morning, as the four of them set out to tour the Coliseum, they made what they hoped would be a quick detour to the train station. Unfortunately there was a large number of people milling about waiting for their turn so Rob and Beth suggested that Dave and Lori go ahead to the Coliseum and get a place in line. Hopefully by the time they rejoined them it would be time to go into the Coliseum.

The Coliseum

Rob and Beth were discouraged with the large number of people waiting in line. They pulled the number B499 and looked around. "Now Serving A387"…It was going to be a long wait.

As they wandered among the crowd a TrenItalia employee approached and offered assistance. She suggested that perhaps they could purchase their tickets at one of the self-service machines. Although they were reluctant as she was unsure if one could purchase a couchette through self-service, they thought they would check it out while they waited for a free agent.

They approached the machine and hesitated as, naturally, all instructions were in Italian. Immediately a man came along and helped them with the instructions. He guided them, almost impatiently, through the instructions. He moved so quickly that Rob and Beth had very little time to process the prompts they were asked. Because of this impatience they headed down the wrong path three times and needed to restart the electronic questions each time. At some point in the middle of the experience Beth wanted to dismiss the man as she was confident they could figure out the process on their own. Furthermore she was concerned that they were not actually getting the correct tickets. However, her Canadian politeness was stronger than her concern of offending him and she continued to let him assist.

"We want to be in the same couchette." she reminded him.

"Sì. Sì. No probleme."

As they removed the credit card and the freshly printed tickets, the helpful man started talking to them in fluent Italian. As they tried to understand what he was saying while they thanked him, it became apparent that he understood about as much English as they Italian. At the same time that they were questioning why the two tickets had different car numbers the man's hand came out and, with what little Italian they had, they understood that his story was that he needed money to travel to Barcelona and he would appreciate a token for his help.

Despite his reassurances that the tickets were fine, they had significant doubts and having that bitter feeling of being scammed, they walked away wishing him well but without contributing to his so-called trip to Barcelona.

With tickets in hand, they approached a TrenItalia personal and started to express their concern over their newly purchased tickets. He led them to a ticket counter, bypassing all of the other waiting passengers, and helped them exchange their tickets for a private couchette - which is what they were looking for all along. They did need to pay for a ticket upgrade, but that is what they were expecting. They profusely thanked the two employees and as they rushed out to join Lori and Dave at the Coliseum, they noticed the "Now Serving" sign was only at B423. Although there was some angst involved, time-wise they felt they were far ahead of the game.

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

Hours after Lori and Dave departed for Canada, Beth nonchalantly asked Rob about the whereabouts of the train tickets. She had left them on the bedside table. Immediately she sensed the panic in Rob as he scrambled around the apartment. With concern ringing in his voice he admitted, "I think I recycled the tickets!!! I thought they were the ones we used for Orvieta!!"

They both searched in vain through their luggage, the apartment, the currently forming garbage and recycling. As 2012 drew to a close, they both reluctantly acknowledged that the tickets were not to be found in the apartment. However, Rob was confident that he could find them in the outside recycle bin as they had just deposited the bag of recyclable material that morning.

Couchette for four to Sicily!

As the fireworks began across Rome Beth donned rubber gloves and Rob grabbed a broom handle. Soon they found themselves each with their head and arms inside the small openings on opposite sides of the recycle bin. Each maneuvering a long stick among the paper recycle looking in vain for the morning's cast off. Although they spent two hours searching they had no luck. However, as they searched they were acutely aware of the magnitude of the fireworks around them. Not only were there major displays in the city centre, many individual residents were also setting off fireworks to announce the start of 2013. The smell of gunpowder was thick in the air they walked through. Dejected, they made their way back to their apartment in the first hour of the New Year.

Arrival in the new
Sicilian residence.

After a restless sleep they set out on New Year's Day to the train station to find out their options for addressing a lost ticket. After a surprisingly short wait in line, they were informed that if they purchased their ticket online they would be able to replace it. However, since they purchased it in person, despite the fact that their names were taken, there was no way to trace their tickets. Fortunately they were able to purchase new tickets at a reduced rate. This time they walked away with 2^nd class tickets and would have to share the room with two other individuals. 

Rome: Final Days

Rome from St Peter's roof

For their last few days in Rome, the four Canadians spent their time seeing sights and experiencing Rome as typical tourists. This time allowed Rob and Beth to focus on their last hours together ignoring the looming thoughts of their friends’ departure, as they would soon enough be returning to their normal lives with family and work.

In the Coliseum

They returned to the Coliseum on the coldest day of the visit to see the ruin from the inside and waited patiently in the long line. They chose to wait in lieu of paying a tour guide the exorbitant rate of 25€ each that would have allowed them to bypass the wait. When then finally found themselves in the stadium’s interior, the four basked in the warm sunny protection it offered, much as the Romans would have back in the day when the killing of Christians was a source of entertainment. After the self-guided tour was finished they spent the money they saved foregoing the tour guide to once again treat themselves to a delicious Italian meal at Luzzi’s Pizzeria.

Vatican Swiss Guard

Across the river on another day, the four ventured into the Vatican City to visit the lavish décor of St Peter’s Basilica, another sight that has its origins rooted in the killing of Christians. St. Peter himself was crucified in the Roman Circus of Nero on the grounds where the Cathedral was erected. Here the four gazed upon the illustrious marble interior and its many treasures including the tomb of the ‘Good Pope’, Pope John XXIII, and Michelangelo’s Pieta. They later climbed the 551 stairs up to the dome of the basilica where they crammed themselves into the already packed roof to glimpse a view of Rome’s endless urban sprawl. 

The walls of Orvieto

On the last full day together, they chose to make the long awaited trip to the town of Orvieto that sits atop a great rock that offered protection to the town in the middle ages.

After the seventy minute train ride they were dropped at the base of a great rock face, the four climbed aboard a funicular that towed its passengers up to the town’s medieval city walls. Standing atop these walls the Canadians looked out to marvel at the surrounding vineyards and olive groves.

More Orvieto

What is Beth explaining to Dave!??

They started the tour surveying the town’s perimeter walls searching for the most photographic sights.  They then walked down the town’s main ‘corso’, window shopping along the way until they found the town’s Basilica, where they gazed upon its large frescos and ornate marble carvings. When they grew hungry, they sampled pizza and an inexpensive porchetta sandwich, before finally stumbling upon a quaint Osteria. There they filled themselves on the wine and local seasonal foods that the proprietors offered. When satiated they worked their way back through the town to ride the funicular down to catch the 6:10 train back to Rome. Silently they rode home each lost in their own thoughts knowing full well that their time together in Italy was coming to a close.

Ciao