Palermo: Wet and Creepy

Palermo's Pretoria Square

On their last full day in Cefalu they choose to go on a day trip to Palermo - the largest city in Sicily.  Since it was raining, they reasoned that being in a big city was likely a better choice than a small town as there should be someplace to visit inside away from the rain. The city was only an hour away from Cefalu and was an easy train trip.

The rain pelted them as they meandered their way around the streets of Palermo. Although they initially walked away when told 10€, they folded like a house of cards when the street vendor quickly dropped the price to 5€. Although they both had on rain jackets they reasoned that an umbrella would provide some additional protection against the driving rain.

Metal works market street

Rob had read that the charm of Palermo was found in the rustic beauty of the growing dilapidation of the old buildings, analogous to antique furniture becoming more valuable as it gains scars with decades of wear. The buildings were majestic but few were well maintained.

They visited the tourist information booth to obtain information about their options for the day and to inquire specifically about the catacombs. Beth, who had read about them online, speculated it was a good choice- especially as they were inside and provide some protection from the rain.

Most of the tourist destinations were centralized in the old town. The catacombs, requiring two buses, was an exception. Rob and Beth after they were handed a map and were informed of the bus numbers, set out on their way.

Rainy in Palermo

With relative ease they maneuvered through the transit system, and following the guidance of the bus driver, they walked two blocks cowering under the umbrella, to the catacombs. There was a moment when they thought it was not open to the public as there were construction workers just inside the entrance working on the building. Thankfully they were able to gain admittance.

Beth had read, that the catacombs in Palermo were not for the feint of heart. The website described them as ‘eerie as a few of the skeletons were still were clothed’. Despite the advanced warning which turned out to be an understatement, they were not prepared for the experiencing of Palermo's catacombs.

Creepy hallway entrance

There were hundreds of skeletons on display and each one was dressed in the attire of their era. The skeletons were stuffed to preserve their shape - often straw could be seen peaking out their neckline. Most skeletons were fixed upright - held in place by wire wrapped around the neck. Many had mummified skin clinging to it and tufts of hair - either on the head or facial – were present. More often than not the expressions on the face were grotesque- as if they stuck eternally moaning or screaming out in agony. It was the first site that Rob and Beth would have appreciated visiting during the busy tourist season since having more people around would have lightened the mood.

"Welcome"

There were many hallways of remains, each for different groupings - one for gentlemen, one for ladies, one for children, families, virgins, religious men. The babies and children were, not surprisingly, particularly disturbing. In one case a young boy was posed with, presumably his little sister, on a rocking chair. With his arms around her, even in death, it looked like he was protecting her.

Yikes!

Back when the Catacombs was a functioning mortuary it was prestigious to have one’s body placed in Palermo’s Cappucini Catacombs. For as long as the family continued to pay, the body was maintained in position.  If payments ceased, it was removed for a more traditional burial. While in the Catacombs family members would visit the bodies of their deceased loved ones, even holding the hands of the body so they could participate in prayer. The last person to be added to the catacombs was a two-year-old girl in 1920. Her body was treated with a method of preservation and to date looks quite eerily alive, almost as if she was sleeping.

Although they appreciated the unique experience that these catacombs provided, Rob and Beth were both relieved when the tour was over and they emerged, once again, into the pouring rain to board the bus that took them to the train station.