Cefalu - Habit forming

Cefalu

They arrived in Cefalu after dark and, as usual, decided to tow their suitcases for the one kilometre hull along the long, narrow streets made of cobble and rock to an address found deep within the old town. Although the road was a bit rough, and at times uphill, they agreed that the going was still easier than that allowed by Bucharest sidewalks. When they finally arrived at the apartment their host was waiting for them despite the fact that were almost two hours later than planned.

The hobbit dwelling

"No problem. I know our train system and it is rarely on schedule." Mari their host reassured them as she familiarized them with the features of the apartment. Although it was bright and clean with a full kitchen, Beth recognized that it was a bit cave-like. There was only one window, with a wooden cover, above the sink that was really just for ventilation as it opened to an inner stairwell. The hobbit-sized doors contributed to the feeling that they were now living in the shire and should keep an eye out for Frodo.

Despite these ‘hobbit-esque’ aspects, the location of the apartment was perfect as it was surrounded by historical buildings and was only a short walk from the beautiful bay harbour of the Tyrrhenian Sea. They unpacked and settled in.

A few weeks earlier when they met up with Canadian friends in Santorini, Greece and Rob and Beth asked "Where should we go for lunch? To the restaurant you went yesterday that you said was so excellent?" they were met with some hesitation.

"We've already eaten there... We were hoping to go somewhere new."

This is a common sentiment - either when travelling or at home. Often people wish to try new places, always wanting to seek something better or at least different from one they've previously experienced.

Dinner at home.

Rob and Beth, while always willing to try something new, tend to quickly become loyal to places they visit. They feel that when they find good service and food quality why risk going somewhere else. Also, they find that the service and food even gets better when they return time and time again. This was true at home where they frequent places like Sorrento's for cappuccino, the Mandarin for Chinese food, Vio's for good Romanian home-cooking, Blaks for a chocolate croissant... This was also true when they travel. They often carefully select places to eat - either by asking their hosts, searching online, or generally keeping an eye out for places popular with locals. Once they find a place that is satisfying, they tend to visit it repeatedly throughout their stay realizing that there is something comforting about the familiar.

Cefalu beaches

In Cefalu mornings belonged to Al Caffe where "Une espresso macchiato, une cappuccino, une Sfolgia mela, et une croissant chocolatto, per favore." totaled 3.80€. They took their breakfast outside to the patio where they savoured the warmth of the morning sun and enjoyed the view. In one direction they could see the Mediterranean Sea with its repetition of blue crashing waves onto the Cefalu beach. In the other direction they were in awe of the contrast between the rugged cliff face of La Rocca behind the medieval stone buildings of Cefalu. Both sights - the sea and the rock - provided spectacular backdrops to the small coast town. The end of most roads in the old town opened up either to the blue of the sea or the ruggedness of the rocky hillside. Each site took Beth’s breath away and she hoped that she wouldn't grow accustomed to its beauty.

The Cefalu Romanesque Church 

Lunchtime would find them eating at an inconspicuous restaurant on the main road just outside of the old town.  They noticed Pasta Pronto et Pasti Buono the first afternoon as the patio tables were full with more people waiting for a free table in the restaurant’s minimal spaces. On that day when Beth inquired she was informed that a table would be available in approximately one hour. To pass the time the two meandered off to Al Caffe and enjoyed a glass of wine while sitting in the sun.

When they returned to the restaurant they found a table waiting for them. They ordered pasta from the specials' board and enjoyed two large servings along with a beer and a small carafe of wine - in a plastic bottle aged to perfection for days - all of which set them back 18 €. They returned every day for lunch, were served by the same friendly and efficient waiter, and enjoyed each meal as much as the first.

Walk not far from town

During the afternoons they explored Cefalu and the surrounding area by foot or bike. They soaked up what sun they could while strolling along the beaches, which were spectacular. On days when the wind blew, the waves crashed with the beautiful power of the sea. On the rare calm day, the sea rolled ever so slightly, inviting them walk to the shore's edge like a tightrope.

Cefalu and La Rocca

At dusk they shopped for produce at one of the many markets before heading home to make dinner. They reproduced many of the Sicilian recipes they sampled at restaurants, appreciating their meal’s simplicity.  By using fresh simple ingredients they found that the meal came together quickly and easily and were delicious.

In the evenings they strolled down to the same Internet cafe to enjoy a glass of wine or beer. The two young owners greeted them each night and informed them of the evening’s schedule.  “Tonight we have live music so it may get a little busy.”  “The football game’s on the screen tonight.” or “It’s Wednesday.  We’re always quiet on Wednesdays.” 

As they reconnected with family and friends and the world in general, they often reflected on their day and acknowledged that following a schedule in a new town quickly made it feel like home.