Cefalu: Making the Most of Each Day.

Duomo Square

Cefalu, the picturesque seaside village of eleven thousand, sits on the north shore of Sicily, and is famed for the ancient ruins that overlook the town from a stone outcrop named La Rocca. They read that the hike up La Rocca was invigorating, the ruins wonderful, and the vistas from the top of the hill stunning. There was no question that Rob and Beth were going to visit La Rocca, especially because of the beautiful hiking.

Cefalu from the side of La Rocca

On their second morning in Cefalu, Beth, Rob, and Eileen, a Seattle native that they met the previous day and together made plans for the hike, climbed the first one hundred metres up the staircase of La Rocca on a partly cloudy and slightly drizzly, morning.  Before reaching the ruin’s entrance, they came across a ledge that overlooked the bay and provided a great view of the town.  Unfortunately there was a sign that warned visitors against walking out onto the precipice especially on rainy days. After a quick look at the trail, Rob ventured out in complete defiance of the sign despite Beth and Eileen’s warning for caution.  However, as he came to no harm, Beth and Eileen soon followed, partook in the photos, and enjoyed the view along with Rob. 

Shores of Cefalu

After having their fill of the beautiful view of the town nestled below and the aquamarine sea splashing on its shores, they continued upward only to be greeted by a locked cage with a sign ‘Closed on days that are windy or when there is rain’. Although dejected the three salvaged the rest of the day by hiking along the shore to a nearby peninsula, at times narrowly avoiding crashing waves that covered their path, and enjoyed the pleasant coastal scenery.

Scopa: Most Popular
Card game in Italy

On the third morning, as the rain was falling heavier they rationalized that the climb to a set of locked gates was futile, so Rob and Beth walked Cefalu’s main corso to window shop at its elegant clothing stores. A relaxed cotton knit sweater with sequined elbow patches and a deck of Sicilian playing cards were the only purchases they made that day. After lunch at their favourite pasta restaurant, they sat for the afternoon in the warm shelter of the town’s pier playing skopa.  Although it is a very popular Italian card game, they've only seen older Italian men playing it - often quite competitively judging by the body language and the loudness of their voices. However, Rob and Beth looked up the rules online and set out to master this game.

More shores

On the forth day once again the morning began with rain so they postponed their climb up La Rocca and mused if the hill was open much during the winter months.  They made a late start of their morning waiting around until the weather cleared. When the day brightened they rented bicycles and spent the afternoon riding up and down the hilly terrain surrounding Cefalu.

Stairs of the Climb

On day five Rob and Beth were welcomed by a sunny morning and with it the promise of the hike. After their breakfast of espresso and pastry, they quickly headed to the base of the winding staircase leading to La Rocca’s gates. During the mere ten minutes if took for them to climb the stairs, the weather gods summoned clouds and the slightest sprinkle of rain began just as Rob and Beth walked through the open gates. The sole ticket agent at the pavilion, speaking only in Italian, indicated that entry wouldn’t be possible since the rains had started.  Dejected once more, they spent the afternoon sheltered within the confines of a café sipping drinks and playing skopa.

On the last full day in Cefalu, the rain poured harder than ever and they came to terms with the reality that a visit to La Rocca was not for them during this trip.  As they set out on a day trip to Palermo, they consoled themselves with the idea that it’s always good to leave something to do the next time one visits a place.