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Otranto Port |
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The main port square into Otranto |
On Monday, Beth and Rob
stepped out of the tiny regional train when they reached the end of the line at
Otranto. The station, located atop a gently slopped hill, was about half a
kilometre from the beach front of this old scenic town.
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Mosaic floor of the Otranto Church |
Much like Gallopoli, the town
of Otranto is a port town, and as such, contains more than it's share of
seafood restaurants for a town of only 5000 residents. Beth and Rob scouted out
prospective places for dinner before venturing along the marble lined square
that opened into the old town's city wall leading to the large Otranto
fortress. The fortress was the great protector of this port town and its
residents who are of Greek origin. The fortress never contained cannon
arsenals, but walking through the old town they were able to see large stone
balls scattered throughout the town, which were ruminants from the Turkish
Ottomans attack in 1480.
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Twins |
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Bone or 800 martyrs |
Entering the old town, Rob and
Beth was drawn to the Cathedral of Otranto that was beautifully decorated with
an immense mosaic floor. The floor’s tree of life pattern was completed under
the work of the monk Pantelone nearly 900 years ago. Beth was captivated by its
cartoonish figures before she noticed the side alter that housed the skulls and
bones of 800 Christian martyred townsmen. These martyrs had chosen to be beheaded by their Ottoman conquerors rather then to convert to Islam. Rob and
Beth were both horrified and yet curiously interested in the forensic scars
from the torture and execution inflicted on them that were still visible on the
bones.
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Bones again |
After a tour of the town that
lasted until early afternoon, they settled on a seafood dinner at Cassa Nonna
Constance Seafood Restaurant. Here Beth, who has grown fond of sea bream,
ordered a filet along with trajedda
-a local, traditional tart made of potato, rice, and onion. Rob chose polpo
in pignata, which is a traditional dish
of stewed octopus with olives, tomatoes, and potatoes.
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Trajedda |
On Thursday, Beth and Rob did
the last day trip in the Puglia region by travelling two and a half hours by a
regional train to the UNSECO world historic town of Alberobello. Rob was very
excited to see this picturesque town, renowned for having the largest gathering
of traditional peasant trullo housing. Beth, who had not done any advanced
research, was not sure about what to expect and she was happy to have another
trip into the countryside.
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Trulli neighbourhood |
The origin of the trullo
house, he read, is unknown to this day as they have been around before the
earliest recorded history of the region. The common belief is that the trullo
house was a reconstruction of the less permanent grass/stick hut that peasants
of the area first used, but with the local area littered with limestone and
stone fragments, later converted into this more permanent dwelling.
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Alberobello Cityscape |
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In a Trullo Home |
Walking through the town they
felt that at any time hobbits would come bounding out of the shire-like
community. At one house, a short, stocky man emerged and greeted Beth and Rob
who had been wandering around and taking photos.
“Come in, Come in." he gestured, and proceeded to give both Canadians a tour of the house he grew up in and still lives in. Like the other few residents they met during their short stay, this man was proud of his trulli heritage.
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